Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 6:58 am Post subject: Descaling engine...
My 2001 Yamaha 150 HPDI starboard engine's telltale was weak at best. I tried all sorts of things to get it flowing better (replaced impellar, used vinegar, looked at the cooling lines...). I wasn't getting any overheat alerts but it wasn't looking right.
I was all but convinced I needed a new poppet valve.
I took the thermostat out and using a boroscope that plugs into my smartphone ($15 on Amazon) took a look inside the thermostat. It wasn't bad, but it wasn't clean either.
Regardless I had done everything I felt comfortable with, but figured I would try the descaler on the engines - they were new to me and were advertised as 300 hours, but it looked more worn than that.
So I took it in to the mechanic and they ran some Hammerhead solution through the system and dang if that telltale isn't strong now. There are some other ones out there, but that's what they use.
I was a bit concerned about the internal anodes being impacted and was told that it won't affect them.
Long story short the Hammerhead descaler seemed to really work.
While it was there I had them run the diagnostics on the engines to check for alerts and to boot I found out that the engines only have 500 hours on them - 300 in the 0-1000 RPM range.
Good day all around...
Anyway - thought I would throw that out there. I've never descaled an engine before and you could do it at home but you'll need a pump, take out the thermostats...I considered it as a DIY moment, but wanted a pros opinion before I really start stretching her legs. So far just lots of inshore trips...gearing up for longer trips.
Joined: 31 Oct 2005 Posts: 986 City/Region: Astoria
State or Province: OR
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 8:30 am Post subject:
No engine to descale here, but interested in descalers. Agree any descaler that is acidic and aggressive enough to break down/dissolve carbonates is likely to attack anodes. However, anodes for an aluminum block/head are a mystery to me.
Their literature indicates no mineral acids, so likely the main active ingredient is a high concentration of a weaker acid. It is rated for use on aluminum engines, so I would take their word on the anode question. _________________ Dave Kruger
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