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CD25 water in the fuel tank area
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journey on



Joined: 03 Mar 2005
Posts: 3593
City/Region: Valley Centre
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: journey on
Photos: Journey On
PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2017 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slipknot,

I certainly can't speak to any changes in the C-Dory 25 construction over the past 23 tears. Sealing the tank off from the bilge seems a likely one.

I also don't know if your boat is on a trailer or in the water. If it's on a trailer, the quick way is to raise the bow and see if any water comes back to the bilge, through the caulking.

I also hope they've changed the cockpit floor hatches so that they don't leak water.

I hope your caulking will fix the problem and Good Luck.

Boris
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2017 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It appears that many of the boats did not have these "steps" tabbed in with fiberglass, but rather sat in with some bedding compound/adhesive. I probably would us 3M 4000. It stays white and does not yellow as 4200 and 5200 have been known to do. It has adhesive powers between 4200 and 5200 in the quick cure versions.:

3M provides product spec sheets for each of their products: /This is for quick cure 4000. 424 PSI overlap shear strength.

This is for quick cure 4200
244 PSI overlap shear strength.

5200 is 519 PSI overlap shear strength.

The way the steps are made, I might be tempted to actually glass them in. That would be to use a couple of layers of tape and mat, then fair and gel coat. A fair amount of work--and semi permeant. (This tape can always be cut if you have to remove the fuel tank. Another way to do it, would be to make a "dam" or "lip" of mat and polyester resin--then fair with high density filler and gel coat, which you could set the "step" into, using a bedding compound--and could use one with even less shear strength--and not worry about it leaking. This would be my choice if I owned the boat.

Some of the earlier boats did not have the lip, which yours is screwed into (by the way, the screws can leak also), so be sure and caulk around the screw as you put it back. Much of the weight of people stepping into the boat is taken on an very thin edge with just sealant holding it in place. Not the best of designs.

To me it is very interesting how the various builders of the C Dory have had different "solutions" for structure and appendages.

When you re-bed the steps--you want to remove all of what ever the factory used for "caulking"--then degrease it very well--There are degreasing solvents. Lacquer thinner and Acetone both are good cleaners, but they tend to soften the gel coat. They also "flash" off very quickly (volatile). Denatured alcohol is at times better. There are also water based "degreasing/de-waxing" agents. I recently had to do some polyurethane paint spray painting on my RV, and the professional store recommended a water based de-waxing solvent which worked very well. .

_________________
Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL
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