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Adding a Hawse pipe and drain

 
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 11:27 pm    Post subject: Adding a Hawse pipe and drain Reply with quote

From: C-LionRay (Original Message) Sent: 1/2/2003 11:31 AM
O.K., I'm thinking it would be great to have a way to get the rode and chain below deck into the locker without disconnedting it and taking the whole wet mess through the hatch. I'm also setting my sites on a windlass so what is it going to take to modify my boat with a hawse pipe and drain?
Thanks in advance,

Ray on Sea Lion

From: Mike Sent: 1/2/2003 10:44 PM
Ray -

The factory hawes pipe is usually located off to the side of center on the foredeck. If you put one there, and later decide to install a windlass, you're going to have an extra hole. You might consider putting it in the center right where the thru hole for the windlass will be, If I ever get some time for myself in this crazy world, I'll look around for the template that came with my Horizon windlass and give it to you. I can also take some measurements on the boat so you will know where the hole is. That way, you can locate the hole where it will also serve the future windlass. A better idea might be to find a booth at the BS selling windlasses, and talk them out of a mounting template. It's just a piece of paper, and if I still have mine, it is probably not in the best shape.

Before I got the windlass, I used a plastic milk crate tied on the bow to hold the rode. It looked kind of dorky, but it really worked well. I would just stand up through the front hatch to pull the anchor, and coil the line in the box as I pulled it in. I bought a rubber floor mat and cut it to fit the shape of the bow deck, and sat the crate on it. The crate had a steel bar around the top, so I tied a short rope with a snap hook on it to secure the anchor in the bow roller. It worked good, but electric is better. If you want that mat and crate, let me know and I will bring it to you Saturday. B~C was really jealous of it for a while, and he kinda wanted it. But he got a windlass instead.

For the drain, I used a nifty looking chrome fuel vent fitting. You can find some discussion of it and a picture of it already on this section of the site. The linked discussion brings up the whole thread - there are a few messages about the drain and its installation there.

Fun, isn't it?

Mike

From: C-LionRay Sent: 1/3/2003 6:41 PM
Free boat stuff?!! Yea, bring it.
I'll see you there hopefully around noon, right?

From: Mike Sent: 1/3/2003 10:47 PM
Alright, Ray - got the fancy anchor box loaded in the Jeep. And, get this - it's green!! Found the mat, too, and as an extra bonus, I left the snap hook for holding the chain and anchor attached to the thing. In case anyone wants to see the dorky thing Mr. F is considering using for an anchor line locker, it's right here. See ya tomorrow about noon at the CD spot.

Mike

From: C-LionRay Sent: 1/4/2003 7:01 AM
SWEET!, you would think it was destined for my green angler huh?
I'll see you there and thanks!

From: Joni Lynn Sent: 1/27/2003 2:02 PM
Mike & Mr Fisherman,
I'm already getting the nervous shakes and a headache just thinking about it, but some time this spring (when it actually warms up here in Wisconsin) I plan on punching a hole in the foredeck of the Joni Lynn so I can install my spiffy new deck/hawser pipe for my anchor rode. I doubt if I'll ever be installing a windlass, but in my old age, I've learned to never say never. So...... can either of you give me some pretty accurate measurements of where I could punch that hole to feel relatively safe that if I do decide to get a windlass some day, I'd have a pretty good chance of being able to use the same hole. I'm not asking for the footprint of the Horizon 600 or similar, just a best guess from you.

Secondly, I understand that I will be going through the balsa core when I start hacking around on my "unsoiled dove". What do you suggest I use as a sealant over the exposed balsa to make certain I don't get any moisture seeping in. Will gooping it up with 3Ms 5200 work?
Thanks. Paul aboard the Joni Lynn

From: Da_Nag™ Sent: 1/27/2003 2:44 PM
Hi Paul,

I think it might be wise to add it off to the side like the factory does - would be a real drag if a hole in the middle prevented you from installing a windlass down the road.

I had the factory install a deck pipe, and later added a windlass. No big deal - the deck pipe they installed has a spring loaded cover, and it just sits there unused for now.

I can measure things up, and snap some photos for you if you are interested in this approach.

Bill

From: Mike Sent: 1/27/2003 4:26 PM
Paul -

If you give me just a bit, I will go down and measure the hole spot for you. I figure if I measure from inside, on the underside of the deck from the point to the hole, you can use the numbers to lay it out exactly where mine is. I can also get the L x W of the oblong hole. As long as the hole for your pipe is no bigger, you should be fine in the future. You will get a windlass, ya know. About the third time you try shoving that slimy rope down that little hole, you will start considering it seriously. Better yet, ask the boat's namesake to do it for you, and it will only take once or twice.

As for the sealer, I used some white caulk that was polysulfide, I believe. The windlass sits partially on the molded nonskid, so I needed a lot of fill. Didn't want to use adhesive on that big an area, so the marine store guy suggested that stuff. I think it is 3M 101.

Just got home from work, so after I get things squared away, I'll whip up a little sketch.

Mike

From: Blackfinn Sent: 1/27/2003 5:27 PM
Howdy All,
Since I plan on boring a few holes this spring myself, I was perusing the West Marine catalog for sealants and espied some "penetrating epoxy" used for saturating dry-rotted wood. Does anyone have any experience with this stuff and/or how do you think it would work for sealing the balsa?
Al

From: Mike Sent: 1/27/2003 7:00 PM
Paul -

I made you a quick sketch of the hole layout for mounting my Horizon 600 windlass. If the hole for your hawes pipe is real close to fitting within the dimensions on the drawing, I say stick it in the middle for now. On the other hand, like Bill says, if you put it off to the side, it can stay. It might even be of use someday when your fancy windlass (that you just had to have) gives up and you need to temporarily stow the rode by hand.

Also got to thinking about the sealant to use. The 3M 5200 will work fine for sealing over the exposed core, but if you use it to seat the hawes pipe, don't even think about getting it out of there without taking some of the deck with it. The 3M 4200 is a little easier to remove, but if you plan on taking the pipe out for a windlass install (and you will!), you would probably be better off with a good marine silicone type sealer. Least wise, that's my opinion.

I hope this helps, and I also hope you have read enough of this section to discover how great I think a chrome/brass fuel vent works for a rode locker drain. There are pictures and everything! Don't worry about cutting holes in your boat, at least on the top side. Go for it!

Mike

From: Mike Sent: 1/27/2003 7:19 PM
Evenin' Al -

I used some two part epoxy called Git Rot when I upgaded my fuel tanks and had to fill the old screw holes. Water had got into most all of the holes, and was soaked into the core. After drying them out, I injected this stuff in there and it set up hard as a rock. The balsa drank up quite a bit of the stuff, and it took a lot to fill the holes. The stuff I used would not work real well on horizontal surfaces, like the exposed core in thru-hull hole, because it is liquid and would run off the surface. After about ten minutes, it starts to set up, and then quickly becomes too stiff to work with. Works great for vertical holes with a bottom in them, though.

Mike

From: Joni Lynn Sent: 1/28/2003 10:50 AM
Mike,
Thanks much for the info and sketch. I really appreciate your doing that for me. I didn't expect such a speedy response, and if fact really won't be doing anything with this until the weather warms up in our frozen world.

Da Nag,
Thanks for your input also, as it has promted me to noodle this out a bit before I start cutting holes in the deck. I think I'm leaning toward making the center cut to (maybe) accomodate a windlass, but I have a couple of months to make that decision.

Now all I have to do is get up the courage to cut my first hole in the boat. Maybe a little "liquid courage" , like a shot of Jack Daniels will help?
Paul aboard the Joni Lynn
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