Repair or Replace Trailer

dbrown993 · Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 9:53 am Post subject: Repair or Replace Trailer

I have a 2007 C-Dory 22 Cruiser currently on a Magic Tilt tandem aluminum trailer of the same vintage. The boat is in great shape. Not so much the trailer. Everything is badly rusted. To bring the trailer up to snuff, I would need to redo almost everything but the frame, including the entire brake system, disks, bearings, leaf springs, bunks, etc.

I frequently tow my C-Dory 700-800 miles each way. I just got back from the Florida Keys and held my breath the whole way.

So, should I make the repairs or just buy a new trailer? If a new trailer, stick with Magic Tilt or go with another brand? Any features I should insist on? How much does my C-Dory weigh loaded with fuel and gear (90HP Suzuki 4 stroke).

Thank you.

Wandering Sagebrush · Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 10:01 am Post subject:

The easiest option would be to replace your trailer, probably not the least expensive. I'm surprised at the rapid demise of the non aluminum components on your aluminum trailer. Are you rinsing it after every launch and recovery?

Best guess on loaded boat weight I'd going to be in the 3,500 pound range. We went with an EZ Loader galvanized, tandem axle 4700# trailer. My only regret is not going with electric over hydraulic braking.

dbrown993 · Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 10:11 am Post subject:

I bought the boat and trailer together about 2 years ago. The trailer was already in bad shape then. I live on a fresh water lake and do rinse everything well after travel to salt water. The boat and trailer was kept in and around salt water for the first 8 years of its life. I don't know what the owner did to try to prevent rust, but clearly not enough...

Anita Marie · Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 11:29 am Post subject:

I am just finishing my rebuild of my King Marine trailer. The frame was still in good shape but it has sat for more than 6 years and has suffered the ravages of the NW.
I completely rebuilt it. New sealed hubs, breaks actuators, break discs, tires, changed to electric over hydraulic with new break lines. I also have put on new bunks and hardware. All this for about half of a new trailer.
If I could have sold my old trailer in the condition it was I would have sold and bought new. Alas the condition was too deteriorated to be able to sell.
Not sure if this helps but at least I know the condition of it going down the road.

Fred

Marco Flamingo · Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 12:51 pm Post subject:

Fred points out the beauty of rebuilding the old one. You get what you want. There's more effort involved, but you save a few dollars. When I looked at new, I couldn't even find what I wanted (brakes on a 2K trailer). New for me would have involved some custom work right from the get go. I did it as a winter project, so there was no lost boating time. That might play into my decision right now.

Mark

thataway · Posted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 1:00 pm Post subject:

Looking at your album, the frame is in good shape. I can see significant rust in the photo.

You are best off rebuilding the current trailer you have. Use SS bolts and U bots etc, with galvanized frame fittings. Get new wheels and tires (tires replaced at 5 years) unless you already have replaced them. Your wheels look bad and probably the lug bolts are bad. Are the axles and bearings OK--if not replace them. Springs do rust--you can coat them with grease or even paint--but they are relatively cheap, so best to replace--because they can break.

You may want to replace the bunks. If you can get salt water grade treatment, the bunks should last the duration of your ownership. Be sure that they are at least treated--and I usually throw another coat or two of treatment on them before covering. Try and get lumber with no knots. Doug Fir is fine. I would avoid "white wood" or hemlock. Use Monel metal staples when you put the bunk covering--the SS will rust. I believe that Home Depot or Lowes still carry the Monel metal staples. We have an electric staple gun, but a hammer type will work also,

Be sure that the bunks extend to the very back of the bottom, but don't extend over near a transducer. Be sure and include rear tie downs. Two options--one is the strap over the transom, the other is from tow eyes on the stern to eyes on the trailer frame. Also a chain to an eye bolt under the winch to hold the bow down.

There is also the question to go to torsion axles if the axles are gone...The mounting to the frame will be different. This is also a time to check the tongue weight and if you need to move the axles forward or backward, a great time. Aluminum is easy to drill.

Add side bunks and standoffs at this time also. Take photos of the current bunk arrangements, as well as measurements to get the bunks in proper place the first time.

New lights---go quality sealed LED.

Brakes--disc with electric over hydraulic is best. I know that Colby gets away with his all electric magnetic type, since he mostly uses the boat in fresh water...

Spindles--I think two good choices there. The lube thru the spindle or the oil filled hubs. I prefer either of these to buddy bearings.

My own calculation of weight is closer to 5,000 #--I over did it with my "new" trailer (a 2000 which looked like new)--it is 6500#...I also went with E/H breaks

hardee · Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2017 6:24 pm Post subject:

Your boat will eventually be close to 5000 pounds. They get heavier as they age and collect "stuff"

If you are washing down after the launch, it should be right away. same with the retrieve wash down. Hauling it home and doing it the next day doesn't help much. You want to do the wash while the trailer is still wet, and get it all over.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon