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Anchor Rehash -- New Anchor – Vulcan
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
When I had a larger boat and single-handed, I would just set an anchor trip line every night.


Granted in many circumstances a trip line will be a very good plan--and I have used it.

However, I have also had: people pick up the buoy on the trip line thinking it was a mooring, had a fishing boat wind the trip line up in their prop--and of course trip the anchor and several other untoward experiences. The need for a trip line for the average cruiser is rare, but again there are times it is necessary.

I like having the option to pull the anchor, without a trip line.

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Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
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journey on



Joined: 03 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Following Bob' post is not a good idea. However here is my experience:

I've been anchoring for the last several decades and I set an anchor trip once. Just to see if it was worth is, And I decided it wasn't. I've dove the anchor, crossed over the set, fought it ever which way but all those experiences says a trip line isn't worth the trouble.

Boris
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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City/Region: Pensacola
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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are some places where trip lines are not allowed. For example in many harbors in the med--where the boats will be right next to each other--a fender's distance apart. It is not unusual to push boats apart where you see a clear space on the cay. Same in some crowed US anchorages.

The Island of Rhodes, main harbor city of Rhodes, has a "Battleship" chain going right down the middle of the harbor where boats are moored stern to the cay. Procedure is to drop the bow anchor half way across the harbor, set it and then back into a spot. Since I had a single screw full keel sailboat, we had a 300 foot 3/8" double braid line, which Marie would take to the bollard we were backing to with our hard dinghy, she would bring the line back to me in the cockpit and I would put it on one of the $48 winches --take up slack and then back, take up slack and back--as she let the chain out at the bow.

When it came time to heave, we did not know if we had hooked into the "battleship". We had hooked our 75# CQR into this massive chain. I had two windlass--one dual speed 24 volt electric and the other manual, with 6' bars to give a ratio of 50 to one. Both of these wold barely lift the chain off the bottom. The harbor was contaminated...I had to dive and put a line under the chain, to take its weight off the anchor, and allow me to free the anchor from the chain (in about 30 feet) We got it free--and I didn't become ill--but I sure would have loved to have an anchor with a slot in the shank!
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Chester



Joined: 04 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SeaSpray wrote:
Hi Bob,

I have the 15lb Boss. I have not tried it on the boat yet to see how it will fit. I do have the longer anchor roller so I am hoping it will not touch the boat.

Steve


It fits just fine on our 2005 22 Cruiser.
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I decided to finally upgrade our anchor. We originally had a 14# Delta which is at the light end of what they recommend for a 25 foot boat. It's worked well for years. But with the new anchors on the market I figured it was time. Plus Fisheries had them on sale w/ free freight to our house. I ordered it yesterday and it arrived today! Yep, a Rocna Vulcan 9 (20 lbs). I watched numerous videos of varying anchors in my search for the "newest" and "greatest". The Vulcan seemed to be ideal for the PNW mud.

I was concerned it would touch/hit the bow due to the extreme curve of the shank. I just installed it and it appears it will clear just enough due to the upper roller not allowing it to move backwards due to the width of the shank. I was originally going with the original Rocna but read some of the reviews on this site about the hoop being an irritant in line of sight.

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NORO LIM



Joined: 24 Apr 2008
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you will love that anchor. I don't think the removal of the roll-bar will compromise the performance of the Rocna. Twelve years ago I was in the market for an anchor and seriously considered the Rocna. I was a little concerned about the roll-bar possibly obscuring vision or increasing fowling/snagging chances. I think both worries were probably unfounded, but I discovered the French Spade anchor and decided on it. I was a really good anchor. It launched easily, never dinged the bow, and I slept well at anchor. I used it all over Puget Sound and up and down the Inside Passage. I never got my back-up Fortress out of stowage. As you can see, the Vulcan is very much like the Spade.


FRENCH SPADE ANCHOR:



ROCNA VULCAN ANCHOR:

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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My brother has a Spade on his 36' sailboat. He loves it. I was always a little concerned about the Delta, especially it's weight. With the 50' of chain we have this should more than suffice. Cool
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hardee



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I swithed anchors a couple years back, from a Delta plow, to a Rockna (Rainbow _my term), and have been a happy camper ever since. Originally the plan was to go to the Vulcan, but it just came too close to the gel coat. So Fisheries allowed the return, and I went anchoring. The shank curve in the Vulcan was it's undoi g for me.

The physics of the spade vs the plow just makes sense any way you look at it.

Harvey
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We have used the anchor only once, so far. Two observations: the first drop set...and I mean SET. The boat came to a sudden & abrupt halt. When retrieving it the windlass actually bogged down and stopped. I'm surprised the breaker didn't trip, honestly. It was covered in good, blackish gray mud too. Like a spoon fool of chocolate cake batter.
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Chester



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hardee wrote:
I swithed anchors a couple years back, from a Delta plow, to a Rockna (Rainbow _my term), and have been a happy camper ever since. Originally the plan was to go to the Vulcan, but it just came too close to the gel coat. So Fisheries allowed the return, and I went anchoring. The shank curve in the Vulcan was it's undoi g for me.

The physics of the spade vs the plow just makes sense any way you look at it.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon


Harvey, which size Vulcan did you try?

Steve
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hardee



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2018 2:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chester wrote:
hardee wrote:
I swithed anchors a couple years back, from a Delta plow, to a Rockna (Rainbow _my term), and have been a happy camper ever since. Originally the plan was to go to the Vulcan, but it just came too close to the gel coat. So Fisheries allowed the return, and I went anchoring. The shank curve in the Vulcan was it's undoi g for me.

The physics of the spade vs the plow just makes sense any way you look at it.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon


Harvey, which size Vulcan did you try?

Steve


Steve, I honestly don't remeber for sure. I believe it was the Vulcan 9, which is 20 pounds, and fair oversize, but for ground tackle I aim for stout. I also thought it had a bit longer shank so it might fit better. It was just too close for my comfort, but I'm sure it would hold the boat.

Harvey
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alainP



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2018 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am very happy with the Vulcan 9 (20lb) fits nicely on the roller and sets fast. Great anchor.
The only thing i need to be cautious about is to slow down with the windlass remote as the anchor comes close to the roller or it might swing widely as it lines itself up.
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Marco Flamingo



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2018 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alainP wrote:
The only thing i need to be cautious about is to slow down with the windlass remote as the anchor comes close to the roller or it might swing widely as it lines itself up.


Something that might be helpful is a special colored marker on the anchor rode that indicates when the anchor is one or two feet below the surface. It is a good place to stop anyway and let the anchor soak off the mud, or to raise and lower a few times to get rid of eelgrass and kelp. Because my "windlass" is manual, I tend to just leave the anchor a foot below the surface and idle around the anchorage to wash it off before pulling it on to the roller.

Mark
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hardee



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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 12:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marco Flamingo wrote:
alainP wrote:
The only thing i need to be cautious about is to slow down with the windlass remote as the anchor comes close to the roller or it might swing widely as it lines itself up.


Something that might be helpful is a special colored marker on the anchor rode that indicates when the anchor is one or two feet below the surface. It is a good place to stop anyway and let the anchor soak off the mud, or to raise and lower a few times to get rid of eelgrass and kelp. Because my "windlass" is manual, I tend to just leave the anchor a foot below the surface and idle around the anchorage to wash it off before pulling it on to the roller.

Mark


Washing the anchor. I do that. Bring it all the way up, take a look, if it needs re-dunking, drop it (to my 5 ft mark), and back away from the spot, idle for a 100 feet or so. If that doesn't do the trick, a couple of bumps on the throttle when in reverse make it look all shinny and new again.

Harvey
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localboy



Joined: 30 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a neon yellow zip-tie that is the point where the anchor is just below the surface. I see it, I stop the windlass and let things settle.
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