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Wiring a New Mastervolt Power Charger
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san juanderer



Joined: 12 Aug 2014
Posts: 234
City/Region: Stanwood
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1990
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Romex was used in the context of the wire being vinyl sheathing covered.
Pro Mariner installation manual clearly denotes the chassis ( case ) stud being wired to the DC Negative Bus Bar.
Boat, water, 120v and 12v bad mixture.
alan

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colbysmith



Joined: 02 Oct 2011
Posts: 4522
City/Region: Madison
State or Province: WI
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Traveler
Photos: C-Traveler and Midnight-Flyer
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lots of good info here, I think... Giving this a lot more thought, I think I'm making this harder than it needs to be. The wiring directions for the Charger do not show any part of it tied into the Galvanic Isolator. Nor does it even show the "earth ground" terminal attached to anything. So I'll remove the wire I installed between that terminal and the boat side of the galvanic isolator.

Now back to the 110 vt system. Isn't the whole idea of the galvanic isolator to keep stray current from coming onto the boat thru the shore ground line, yet closes the circuit if necessary to allow the boats stray current to escape back to shore ground? There are very few things on our C-dorys that would conduct electricity to the water. The outboard motor is about it. Unless you have a chain only anchor rode. Our hulls are fiberglass. The only thing that normally uses both A/C and D/C that would possibly short circuit across those two electrical systems, would be our battery chargers. In which case if that happened, the D/C system is already grounded through the engine.

What would be more advantageous in the case of stay current from a short circuit would be the GFCI. That will stop the current flow. The isolator just allows current on the ground (green) wire to flow to ground.

In retrospect, I question why we want to tie our 12vt and 110vt systems together at all. Colby
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20778
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Colby,
You have hit upon what I do in my boat...that is a float the 110 volt ground, and have GFI on the plugs. We use the Honda Generator as much as any source of 120 volts when cruising--and it has its own issues, with a semi floating neutral.

Yes, ABYC is optional--and one of the options is not to bond and tie things together. If you are going to tie them together, then do it properly.

There is a paradox, because if you use the hot, neutral, ground wiring to the Mastervolt battery charger, then you have tied the charger "chassis" to the neutral I believe.

The galvanic isolator prevents stray DC current and miss-wired boats (where the hot and neutral are reversed--and thus the neutral and ground, become hot--and this can cause dangers on your boat--because the marina or other boats on the same "leg" of the circuits have been miss -wired. I check the marina wiring before i plug into it--to avoid that problem. I know that my home wiring is proper.

Back to an isolation transformer is better, but large heavy and costly, so you rarely see it on small recreational boats.

Alan, Yes, the ProNautic series Manual, shows the case ground going to a "Main Grounding Bus to Engine negative" (sic-manual)--which also has a leg to the neg terminal on the battery. As per suggested in ABYC. However, the ProSport series, do not have a chassis ground and no chassis wire in that series. This is pretty much the way that the less expensive "wet mount" battery chargers are wired. Any negative connection is thru individual battery cables, and the 120 AC mains, is thru the power cord.

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Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
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