SE Alaska & the Yukon River 2016

Hunkydory · Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2016 10:15 pm Post subject:

Bob, your welcome & glad to hear you enjoyed my narrative & good memories brought back.

April 27. Spent the day at the Hoonah Marina transient dock & it's a good time to do so. Wind & waves in all the channels now with a series of fronts moving through. There are large fishing boats & tugs held up here waiting for the gales in the Alaska gulf to subside, so they can move on up to Cordova & the Homer area. We got back out of Glacier Bay just in time.

I installed the new fuel pump for the Wallas & it's now putting out much more heat at lower settings. At least it was an easy replacement job. Jo-Lee got caught up on cloths washing & we both made good use of the marina showers. The Harbor Master said this present weather is the coldest it's been since January. We have decided on at least one more day right where we are & maybe more.

Day 9, 0 miles today & still 458 total

doc · Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 5:34 am Post subject:

It looks like Jay and Jolee headed out of Hoonah and up Frederiick Sound to it's end and likely tied up to the old Forest Service dock at Eight Fathom Byte. That's about 40 miles east of Juneau as a crow flies. It's a beautiful area but if the weather there is anything like Juneau, they are getting pressure washed right now.

Hunkydory · Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 10:36 am Post subject:

April 28. After a relaxing walk about in Hoonah where we saw the Indian carvers working on 30+ foot long dug out canoes for a display setting in Glacier Bay Park Headquarters & more groceries at Hoonah Trading Post & water at the dock we slow cruised toward the head of Port Fredrick. On the way toward the very head of the bay we saw several whales & bears & then a large male, which we unintentionally spooked as we tried to get a closer look, not knowing just around the bend, hunters were trying to make a stalk. Upon arrival at the bay head in a beautiful spot we dropped anchor & took a nap. Just after we awoke & while having coffee we spotted two bears down the shoreline eating the new lush sedge grass. Once they meandered off we headed to the forest service dock, which we discovered in 2007 & stayed for at least one night on every trip since. Last year we had a wonderful time here sharing it with Brent & Dixie. Shortly after settling in the two hunters arrived to tie there boat up here also. The younger guy is the captain of the Coast Guard ship Liberty, home ported at Auke Bay near Juneau where we had the window repair done & the other his father from New York. They are staying in the unique little forest service rentable cabin about a half mile away, that Jo-Lee & I so enjoyed walking to & looking over last year, while Brent & Dixie, fished just off shore from it. It's been raining hard off & on all day with a stiff breeze & if it breaks sufficiently enough by tomarrow morning, we will head off to Tenekee.

Day 10, 23 miles today & 482 total.

April 29. Steve, your sure right about the poring rain last night. We are now coming down Port Fredrick with hopes of making Tenekee today before the next big storm arrives on Chatham Strait, which is supposed to continue through the weekend & finally break Tuesday. If we can make Tenekee Inlet it is forecast to be smooth during this period & being we haven't ever been up to its head it shoud be a good time to do so. Already we have seen several whales this morning.

Jim & Dara · Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 4:31 pm Post subject:

I too greatly enjoy reading your trip reports. I find them very inspiring and look forward to reading more.

We plan to head that way the summer of 2018 unless we can get out of our 2017 plans lol.

Safe travels

Jim

doc · Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 8:25 pm Post subject:

The weather in S.E. Is going to crap this weekend. Strong winds and big seas with lots of rain, up to four inches over the weekend. Looks like Tenakee might be a good place to be for a few days. I was planning to launch Blue Moon today and possibly meet up with you but it doesn't make much sense, given the weather. I made an error last night, saying Frederick sound when I meant Port Frederick. Hey, it was late. I tried to hale Hunky Dory on the vhf with no luck. I can often reach North Chatham but not TKE. Given your wise philosophy of early morning navigation, you likely arrived Tenakee Inlet hours ago. Hit the store in TKE early and you can score some great cinnamon roles. There is a really nice anchorage at Saltery Bay, on the south side of the inlet, not far, about five km southeast of TKE. Stay dry.

Jack in Alaska · Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 8:29 pm Post subject: Jay's adventure

Jay..........

I once again am lurking and enjoying your adventures via your excellent writing. PLease keep it up for the remainder of your trip and stay safe.
If you happen to make a wrong turn and come up the Cook Inlet we live on the east beach one mile south of Cape Ninilchik and 40 miles north of Homer.
You are always welcome. Then I could get your "story" in person.

Jack on High Tide.

doc · Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 8:44 pm Post subject:

The weather in S.E. Is going to crap this weekend. Strong winds and big seas with lots of rain, up to four inches over the weekend. Looks like Tenakee might be a good place to be for a few days. I was planning to launch Blue Moon today and possibly meet up with you but it doesn't make much sense, given the weather. I made an error last night, saying Frederick sound when I meant Port Frederick. Hey, it was late. I tried to hale Hunky Dory on the vhf with no luck. I can often reach North Chatham but not TKE. Given your wise philosophy of early morning navigation, you likely arrived Tenakee Inlet hours ago. Hit the store in TKE early and you can score some great cinnamon roles. There is a really nice anchorage at Saltery Bay, on the south side of the inlet, not far, about five km southeast of TKE. Stay dry.

Discovery · Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 10:33 am Post subject:

Hunkydory spent the night at Tenakee Springs and they are now headed up Tenakee Inlet.

hardee · Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 12:14 pm Post subject:

Have been following along and dreaming. Loved the report from G- Bay area and hope to some day make it into there. Like the idea of less competition on the waters. You two be safe and enjoy the seclusion. The first cruise ship for the Alaska routing is in Seattle this weekend, so you have a few more days.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

Hunkydory · Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 1:58 am Post subject:

April 29. We made it to Tenakee early this afternoon with the weather window on Chatham Strait closing rapidly for it's projected 30 knot blow tomarrow & not much better Sunday. Today at 15 knots on the bow not to bad except in the tidal rip areas, where the big Boss anchor was getting a workout when it & the bow buried themselves in the on coming very steep short spaced waves.

There's only about 80 people here in Tenakee this time of year & we saw much less than that as we walked up & back from the harbor, the narrow one lane street going from the harbor to the the other end of town making for a nice 2 mile+ walk. Beautiful planted flower gardens are in bloom along with the wild ones & this along with the unique houses & the view looking out across the waters of the Inlet with the snow capped mountains beyond made for a very pleasant walk. We are now relaxing in the boat for the evening with it facing out toward the inlet, the town across the waters to our right & the same, but now unobstructed view in front as we had in town, as we watch the sun making its way toward the horizon with alternating blue sky's & rain showers passing overhead. There is a hot springs here located in a building near the very center of the town, but to me it's dungeon like & not appealing. We will wait for for one of our favorite hot springs do do our soaking, which is in Warm Springs Bay, where we plan to be in 3 or 4 days depending on weather.

The Tenakee Marina doesn't have restrooms, but the town does provide near its middle & just off to the side via a boardwalk out over the tidal zone a public restroom. It's in the form of a little one seater outhouse with a opening in the bottom to the tidal zone below. Just in case anyone reading this makes it up there & needs to use it, remember to bring your own paper as none is available there.

Fellow C-Brat, Steve Parsons emailed a long time friend of his who had moved here to Tenakee over 20 years ago, that we would likely be here today & Pete came down to the dock & we had a good visit with him here in the boat, where he shared interesting information about Tenakee & some of his experiences of living in this remote setting.

Day 11, 66 miles today & 546 total.

April 30. We were awakened early at at our dock space providing the previous evening beautiful view by being bounced against the side of the dock from our exposed to the wind & waves that had increased overnight. With having to move anyway decided to head out early to check out some of the other inlets toward the head of Tenakee Inlet. The waves weren't bad with them on our stern for a few miles, but then the wind & waves both increased & our checking out inlets turned into a search for a good safe hidey hole. We found one about 16 miles from Tenakee Harbor in a nook off the head of Seal Inlet. Twice we left the anchorage to check & see if we could proceed on up the main inlet, but both time were greeted by some big steep waves brought up by the very high winds now on the main channel. This was forecast for Chatham Strait, but not Tenakee Inlet. Made the best of it by relaxing & reading the day away, which at one point was interrupted to our enjoyment by a very young deer swimming by just a few feet off the bow of the boat as it crossed over from one side of our little nook to the other.

Tomarrow if weather allows we will continue on up to the head of Tenakee Inlet with needing to be back in Tenakee to top off fuel on Monday, which is one of only three days a week the fuel dock there is open. From there we must make it last till eventually reaching Sitka.

Day 12, 23 miles today & 569 total

May 1. We awoke to zero wind & smooth water, so with a quick pull of the anchor, we were off to explore the rest of Tenakee Inlet in the misty rain & have our coffee & breakfast while on the move. No whales or bears, but plenty of birds & an occasional deer along the shoreline. What really kept our interest was the ever changing views of this Inlet caused by the misty rain & fog over the waters & gold rimmed tidal zones, backed by the many varieties of trees in different hues of green with an occasional break through of the higher mountains & snow covered peaks beyond.

Upon reaching the head of this Inlet we found ourselves less that a mile away from where we anchored & took a nap at the head of Port Fredrick several days ago. By going out Port Fredrick, up Icy Strait, down Chatham Strait & then up Tenakee Inlet we have made almost a complete circle on the water of over a hundred miles & then became just separated by a narrow strip of land from where we started.

Just after reaching the head of Tenakee Inlet, the winds picked up causing us to seek shelter until they died back down in the early afternoon. When they did we made for Saltery Cove, which is the nicest one, we have seen on Tenakee Inlet & only 7 miles from the Tenakee fuel dock, where we plan to be in the morning at 10am to take on fuel.

Les/Sandy & Kevin/Laura, tonight we were visited by those ornery transducer wire eating muskrats, but as you know, we were properly prepared, so we will leave here in the morning with the Depth Sounder still working unlike you guys last year on Yellowstone Lake.

Day 13, 52 miles today & 621 total.

May 2. We made it to the fuel dock as planned at about 9:45 am, but the strong wind coming directly across the bay was driving 2 to 3 foot waves directly in to the creosote soaked pilings we needed to tie to for taking on fuel. With it looking likely the winds would continue to blow past the the 2 pm closing of the fuel dock & there not opening again for a couple more days, we decided to head out toward Chatham Strait & to find a nook to hide until the winds on both Tenakee Inlet & Chatham strait backed off & we could make for Angoon for fuel. We found the nook we needed, dropped the anchor & settled in watching the birds close by, when a short time later the only bear we have seen on our entire exploration of Tenakee Inlet showed up close by us on shore. About 3pm, I noticed the whitecaps were off the waves passing just off from our protected spot, so decided to make the three mile run out to see if Chaham Strait was now doable too. It was, with the waves left, being big, but smooth after starting to settle back down from the past three days of high winds. So we made the 24 mile run down & across Chatham Strait without incident. Just after getting into cell phone range of Angoon our friend, Les Fisher called & gave us a weather report for the next few days, which was all good for a change & told us it was good we waited out crossing till this afternoon, as it was small craft warnings here most of the day. We have found the normal access to VHF radio weather reports spotty at best with many days without any at all. From just after leaving Hoonah, we didn't have any reports, until shortly before reaching Angoon today.

Day 14, 47 miles & 668 total.

Hunkydory · Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 2:35 am Post subject:

Steve, you were sure right about heavy rain as it did seem close to pressure washing at times. To bad about the storm stopping you from coming over as it would have been great to explore some with you. Like you said we sure liked Saltery Cove too & it was our favorite anchorage in Tenakee Inlet.

Jack, I sure appreciate you letting me know you enjoy my sharing & we do hope to get up your way.

Jim, thanks for the comment & I hope you do make it up here in 2017 or 2018. You won't regret the effort & expense to do so, if you do.

Harvey, yes Glacier Bay is special, but to me worth it only if done off season like we just did, I think Holkum Bay with its Tracy & Indicott Arms, Fords Terror & the multiple glaciers there actually a more condensed & awesome place then Glacier Bay & more easily doable in a small boat than Glacier Bay.

I know the cruise ships are coming & I'm not looking to the arrival of the big ones, but especially all the mini's that are now going into the more remote places. Thus far, we still haven't seen another cruising boat of any kind & very few fishing boats.

Jay

doc · Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 3:01 am Post subject:

Guess what Jay? The cruise ships have arrived.

Will-C · Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 9:07 am Post subject: SE Alaska & the Yukon River 2016

Jay,
I could not help thinking about you just moving up there to Alaska. Good to hear you and Jolee are out an about. The Wallas problem even annoyed me as I can't imagine having to deal with that let alone what you have to go through just get to the actual part. I hope all else goes well. How long are you planning to stay up there?
D.D.

Hunkydory · Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 11:46 am Post subject:

Good morning Dave & pass on a Hi! & hug to Ginny. Yes, with the narrow good weather window we had for Glacier Bay & needing the dry heat up there, one of the last things we would have wanted to deal with was Wallas problems again. Our relationship with it continues to be a love-hate thing. This now, not so new one, we had shipped to us up here in 2012 never has put out the heat, we thought it should or the older one did & if turned to a low setting would flame out, so I think this pump problem with it has been there since new, even if it wasn't leaking then. At least the replacement of the pump has solved the low heat output. Now at the lowest setting it puts out more heat then the highest would before & no matter the temperature outside can now reach 70 degrees inside if desired.

We plan to be off the waters here in SE Alaska soon after the 1st week in June, then do the Yukon River followed with being back home to spend time with kids & grandkids in early July.

Hunkydory · Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 11:56 am Post subject:

Brent & Dixie, I forgot to mention when we were in Auke Bay having the window replaced, tied up just across the long walkway dock from us was the Sea Ranger, the floating lodge we saw last year just before entering the narrows to the Bay Of Pillars. Up close the accommodations on it looked good but the large wooden vessel looks very rough just above & below waterline. I don't think any of us would have slept well on it.