Dremel model and bits for deck fasteners repairs

[A Fishin C]

Dreaming of my spring project...

I want to remove all deck fasteners (through bolts on cleats, rails, downrigger plates etc.) and fuel tank fasteners, drillout, dremel grind balsa undercut, epoxy fill and redrill, re-install with sealant.

Question which model of dremel and which bits are best to purchase?

Thanks, as always,

[thataway]

I like the 3000 or 4000 models, since they have multiple variable speeds. There are some cheaper ones which are single, or two speeds. (I confess I have a number of Dremel tools, including 3 different battery run tools.

As for cutters, I would like the 100, 114, 115, 116, and 117 cutters. I have a couple of the 100/114 in carbide.

Of course the sanding drum in both sizes, I also feel that the system "Ezy Lock system for both metal and plastic cutters, should be in the kit. Also sanding discs are made for this.

I have several hundred other discs, the drill press stand, the router attachment, router bits, drills, different mandrels, several flexible shafts, mated to Dremel tools, and even the larger 1/4" bit tool motor, with step down for using of the 1/8" bits, in a more powerful setting.

[A Fishin C]

Thanks Dr Bob, exactly what I needed.

for the thickened epoxy, would this product work?
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/six10-thickened-epoxy-adhesive/

I like the way it dispenses.

[UncleRichie]

Hi have you ever used the cut off discs from a cut of air tool When they get down two about 2 inches you can''t use them any more ,was thinking about making a holder for the dremel to use the rest plus they would last a lot longer then the dremel discs. They have a 3/8 hole in them so would require a special holder , I know the dremel spins faster then the air tool but being half size would think they would work or maybe just don't run them full blast they work very well for detail work but the air tool is just a little big for some stuff. What do you Think?
Richard

[thataway]

The six 10 should work fine. I make my own mix, using cabosil, and standard West system components, and then add medium density filler. But if you just occasionally use epoxy the six-10 should be mine.

The next question from Uncle Richie is about the air grinder cut off wheels. I do like to use air tools, and have several disc grinders & die grinders. The cut off wheels in the Dremel tools are very thin. The discs I have used in the die grinders, and larger wheels, are considerably thicker. It is possible that the 1/4" Dremel tool , would work, and used a 1/4" shaft adaptor, but I don't think that the 1/8" Dremel tool would have enough torque to allow much cutting--unless the cut off wheels you are using are much thinner than the ones I use.

Dremel, used to use only the mandrels with a shaft which had about 1/32 hole in the shaft end, and a set screw. into the end of the shaft. These discs were very thin and some were reinforced, others were not. The newer system which still uses the 1/8" shafts, now use EZ Lock system, with a 1 1/2" re-inforced disc. These are more durable, (both metal and plastic cutting varieties).

[Marco Flamingo]

I have been removing the balsa out >1/8th inch in from the mounting hole, placing tape over the hole from the inside, and then simply filling the hole with epoxy/cabosil or epoxy/microballoons and re-drilling the hole. Uses more epoxy, but saves a lot of time messing with trying to neatly fill a dado in the balsa and trying to keep the hole clear.

I mix the filler to the consistency of honey and then use a disposable eyedropper for most holes. http://www.amazon.com/katito-Disposable-Transfer-Graduated-Pipettes/dp/B00P7QZDK4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1447290898&sr=8-2&keywords=disposable+eye+dropper

The mixture is soupy enough so that bubbles come up through. I thicken it a little bit more for horizontal holes, like in the transom, stick the eyedropper in, squirt until the filler oozes out, then continue squirting as the dropper is pulled out. A piece of tape, already cut, is then placed over the hole so that the putty can't drain out.

I've gone a little further and have been brushing the inside of most holes with penetrating epoxy before filling with West System putty. If you do this, make sure that it's an epoxy without an amine blush so that the West will adhere.

And I'm still using butyl tape and polysulfide bedding compound when remounting the hardware. Sort of a belt, suspenders, and thumb tacks approach.

Have fun.

Mark