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v700 clamping plate

 
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kayakbriang



Joined: 25 Apr 2015
Posts: 23
City/Region: Lodi
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Mooch Strong
PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 12:33 am    Post subject: v700 clamping plate Reply with quote

Installing a v700. Probably a dumb question but the clamping plate goes below deck and not above deck correct? Can't find a solid answer anywhere.
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Blue Rose



Joined: 18 Sep 2012
Posts: 72
City/Region: Montgomery
State or Province: MN
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Blue Rose
Photos: Blue Rose
PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my Sprint 600 (similar to a v700) the winch on sits on top of the deck and the plate under the deck. The bolts between the winch and the plate then "squeeze" the deck to help hold the winch in place.
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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, the plate goes below the fiberglass deck to distribute the load out over a much larger area than you would get with washers and nuts alone.

There are many hardware installation situations where a metal or other composition plate is a much better solution to distributing the load out than just washers and nuts.

These are sometimes referred to as "backing plates".

Often boat owners make up their own plates for such items as down rigger bases, handrails, ladders, swim steps, pot pullers, windlasses, rod holders, roof racks, and the like!

See the quote below from "The Hull Truth":

Default Backing Plates vs. Fender Washers
Backing plates be they metal or marine plywood are by far better than using large shoulder washers.

I have pushed sailboats around the oceans in years past, and can attest to the advantages of backing plates versus large shoulder washers.

A backing plate larger than the over-head mounted hardware or equipment distributes the load over a larger area, as opposed to pin-point stress.

An ideal installation is; backing plate, shoulder washer, lock washer, nut.

A backing-plate helps reduce possible twisty action in the face of a horizontal pulling stress and in a vertical stress distributes the stress first to the backing-plate versus directly to a pin-point area digging directly into the fibre-glass.

Some may say this is an over-kill, but, I can tell you from experience that when the shit-hits-the-fan you want to know that your boat take it. How many cleats pulled out of decks or stress cracks around windlass installation have you seen???

Chris-Craft - Seahawk


See: http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/6655-backing-plates-vs-fender-washers.html

Enjoy your C-Dory!

Joe. Teeth Thumbs Up

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Sea Wolf, C-Brat #31
Lake Shasta, California

"Most of my money I spent on boats and women. The rest I squandered'. " -Annonymous


Last edited by Sea Wolf on Tue Oct 20, 2015 10:52 am; edited 1 time in total
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kayakbriang



Joined: 25 Apr 2015
Posts: 23
City/Region: Lodi
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Mooch Strong
PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. Didn't make sense to put it on top of the deck but those schematics were trying to confuse me.
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20779
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BE sure and fill the area around the cutout and where any bolts go, with epoxy. You don't want to "squeeze" an unprotected core of balsa! It will get wet, around the windlass, hole, and then eventually compress the core--and cause damage to the deck. I cut back about 1/4" around each of the bolt holes, and the main chain cutout on my windlass (Horizontal axis. I had a Vertical axis in the Cal 46, and made an aluminum plate 3/8" thick, covering about 3 sq feet under the deck, and incorporating the cleat, the chain stopper, and the first several bolts of the bow roller/pulpit.
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Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL
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kayakbriang



Joined: 25 Apr 2015
Posts: 23
City/Region: Lodi
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Mooch Strong
PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 3:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I over drilled the stud holes and the filled with epoxy. Let it cure then redrillef for correct size. Did this with both windlass and bow roller. Main cut out all under cut and refilled with epoxy. Bedded with 4200 and additional applied to bolts and epoxy coated edges.
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