Lousy fuel sender access on 2011 CD-25 Gauge inaccuracy!

Avidmagnum12

Just finished my list of projects on my new to me CD-25. So time to start a new one. The Yamaha fuel gauge (analog) has been very inaccurate. At empty mark I have about 25 gals in the tank. When the gauge shows full I can still put in about 15 or more gallons. I think that the problem could be the fuel sender. Took off the access cover and no sender.....oh there it is....about 9 inches or so farther back. Not too handy!

To change out the sender it looks like I would have to remove the deck or cut a new access hole. Crook

Any other ideas?

I have a Garmin 4008 MFD on the C-Otter and a 2010 Yamaha 200 HPDI outboard. Looking at getting the engine fuel flow data to the Garmin. If the fuel burn can be totalized the tank gauge would not be such a major factor.

Lowrance makes a Yamaha to NMEA 2000 adapter. Part number 000-01200-37. I have a NMEA 2000 network on the boat already. Think it will work with the Garmin. Anyone try this out?

I sure did like the plastic tanks on the 22 commuter we had. Always knew how much fuel we had. But we do love the space of the 25.

Will-C

Tom,
Garmin makes a fuel flow system that will work with your 4208.
A GFS-10. They are listed at around $140 dollars. That's what I used and it seemed to be pretty accurate. You just have to add fuel using your 4208 when you add fuel. It will show up as a gauge and compute to show you the remaining gallons. It also will show you where you get the best fuel economy. I also added fuel whistles on the fuel tank vent lines to reduce blowing fuel out your fuel vents. Whistle stops you stop pumping fuel.
Safe Travels'
D.D.

Sunbeam · Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 2:08 pm Post subject:

"Access plate to nowhere" - that's annoying!

OTOH, at least there are other means (NMEA) to show the level now.

gulfcoast john · Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 6:45 pm Post subject: gfs 10

Tom,
Agree with D.D.
I can save you a lot of research. If you don't already have Yamaha Command Link digital gauges on a Yamaha network it ain't worth the trouble. That Lowrance cable only works with a Lowrance MFD or (your cheapest option) LMF-200 ($200) powered up, which after 'calibrating' your network may work on your Garmin even after you remove the LMF-200. Or maybe not. However, to thread it through your engines rigging tube requires a bunch of un-rigging (throttle, shift cables etc) and labor. To do it the Yamaha Way, you need a $300 Yamaha Command Link Gateway and Bus ($55) and pigtails ($100) and several $Boat Units de-rigging/re-rigging labor. Yamaha claims other networks can back feed into their engines and cause problems, the Gateway provides one-way engine out info only. 2006 and later Yamahas only. So, you basically have to set up a Yamaha network with their interface to connect to your existing N2K network. My Yamaha 5-star techs understood what I wanted but didn't think the added engine info was worth the money and I finally agreed. Now I will not be able to monitor engine Boost Pressue, whatever that is...I have no idea. You might check under the cowling to make sure the Command Link 4-way white plastic plug (white, blue, red, black wires) wasn't routed through your rigging hose already. If you are the guy who flies the 1960 Cessna then maybe you rigged your own engine and it's no big deal for you. You can search TheHullTruth forum for the guy who cut the plug off and cut the speedo pitot tube to fish the wires through then plugged the tube (not my style).
I too was mainly interested in the fuel used/mpg/efficiency and installed 2 Garmin GFS-10 units for $150 each. Skip the optional connections to your fuel gauge as nothing gained. Skip the 30micron filter and install turbine after your (Genuine Yamaha/worth it) big blue 10 micron filter. I chose to buy some extra A1 fuel hose as I didn't want to shorten the original line at all. Flow from filter must be upwards to engine to avoid bubbles. I suspended both from looms rather than mounting on boards as a Garmin approved option. Be aware that in standard marine wiring black (old std) or yellow (new) is 12v neg, but in YamaWorld yellow is Ignition -On 12v Positive. (To reach the fuses I blew on THAT harness required removing the water heater). From the fuel line turbine you will have a network plug to plug into your transom area backbone and a long multi wire for your +/- power lead/optional tank gauge leads... and that's it. If you don't connect the gas gauge you can get your 12v power from some switched source in the back. (It can't use network power alone). Download the latest 4008 software update from Garmin's website on a SD card to update your 4008.
I like big numbers showing GPH on the 741 (GPH can be used for synching engines about as well as the RPM in my case). Grand total MPG, GPH, Gallons remaining, Range shows on the 4012...all customizable. Use the Add Fuel soft button when you fill up and it will track usage very accurately. I don't know about HDPI, but my engines at idle run off a Vapor Separator tank. The fuel pumps fill it intermittently so you'll show 45 MPG/.3GPH varying wildly at idle, but the Totalizer function still measures total fuel going through the turbine should you go idling about all day.
Oddly, my analog fuel gauges are by far the most accurate of any of 11 power boats...to 4 gal increments 2, 75gal tanks, and full and empty are spot on. I agree in advance if Dr Bob points out this is a totally un-nessessary complication of a simple boat, but I like my boy toys. It's my money and I can waste it any way I want. Besides, I feel very guilty that I'm not monitoring engine Boost Pressure.

Will-C

Boost pressure is related to Turbo charged engines. In the boating world that usually is mostly associated with turbo charged diesels. With variable vaned turbochargers they like you to keep an eye on boost pressure. It's right there on a gauge with engine temperature, rpm's, and oil pressure.
D.D.

thataway · Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 8:35 pm Post subject:

Dr. Bob thinks that fuel flow gauges in Tom Cats are very useful…but he tends to put "stuff" on his boats for fun..

I agree that going with the Garmin transducers is going to be the easiest and very satisfactory way to solve the issues.

Avidmagnum12 · Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 9:44 pm Post subject:

Thanks for all the great advice. Looks like I'll be ordering the Garmin GFS-10. Bob ....I looked under the cowling on my Yamaha and you are right...it would be quite a job to run the Lawrance cable. I do a lot of my own aircraft maintenance but know my limitations. The Garmin looks like it's a job I can do. I'll also be sure to get a 10 micron filter. I always know that I'll get great info from the helpful C-brats on this site. I try to keep it simple but sometimes I stray. Wink

Avidmagnum12 · Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 9:25 pm Post subject:

Mite be good to order the fuel whistle for my 25. I have two vents with one tank and I wonder if I need two fuel whistles?
Anyone have them on a 25?

Thanks

thataway · Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:37 pm Post subject:

Yes, you need two whistles.

Pat Anderson · Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 3:03 pm Post subject:

Daydream has the "access plate to nowhere" too. It seems some kind of cross-up between design and production or something.

Avidmagnum12 · Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 6:17 pm Post subject:

I wonder Pat how many 25's are like that. Wonder if they got tanks from different suppliers? Oh well....ordered my Garmin FGS-10.

thataway · Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 7:31 pm Post subject:

The early boats had a plastic tank--at least one of those leaked, and they were difficult to fill. So a different design aluminum tank was made, and at least some of the boats had fills on both sides with the new tank.

This photo is of my 2003 C Dory 25, as we pull the rotted cockpit floor out, and rebuilt it. The forward access was right over the fuel tank sensor, and the aft was over the bilge pump.

Avidmagnum12 · Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 9:36 pm Post subject:

My 2011 has fills on both sides....very handy at the fuel dock!