2015 SE Alaska Cruise out of Skagway

[Hunkydory]

I previously stated my plans to not do a running commentary of this cruise here on the C-Brats, but have found that I still need to write in the boats log & with my present sharing of it on Facebook, thought it best to share here as well. I hope this in addition to Brent & Dixie's thread will show our cruise from different perspectives & add to the enjoyment of the C-Brats, who like to follow the write ups of cruises of this nature in these waters.

Jay

[Hunkydory]

6-17-15 With clouds obscuring the big mountains & forecast wind enough to think it might be bouncy, decided not to round Yakobi Island. Instead we went directly from Elfin Cove to Pelican. Stayed the night there at the dock for $14, fueled & purchased 5 gal of shaved ice for $3. While there, the Alaskan Ferry, Leconte arrived & it's quite interesting to watch the locals sort out all the supply orders coming in & being off loaded by large truck vans with loaded pallets. There isn't a regular grocery or other store, so it's a big deal with all else shut town, upon the ferry's arrival.

That evening while walking the town boardwalk, Jolee spotted orcas cruising by up channel just off shore, so we quick started the boat, cast off & caught up with them for video & photos with us still being back to town before dark. With thousands of miles cruised in Southeast Alaska, orcas have been a rare sight for us. So this was quite a thrill. 33 miles today 231 total.

6-18-15 With a very unusual forecast of continuing 3 foot seas on the outside, we didn't tarry in the Pelican area. On past trips weather has held us up here for 5 days to close to two weeks, so this was really surprising for us. We stopped at our past, waiting out the weather spot at the Bohemia Forest Service dock for a few minutes then headed out Lisianski Strait for Porkypine Bay. On the way another surprise & a good viewing of another Orca Pod of 7. That evening at Porkypine Bay, I took a Mokai ride to the Shilo Bay Area, which was a 6 mile run. Brent & Dixie set out the Scrimp traps. 33 miles 261 total.

6-19-15 No scrimp in the traps in the morning, so made the unusual smooth water run to Mirror Harbor. Anchored in the west arm bay & then Jolee & I explored the many tidal sloughs in the Mokai. Later two young guys dropped anchor near us & from a chat with them, while they smoked pot, they said they were going to walk to the hot springs, where they were going to relax more with beer & pot, then make the run up the outside to Deer Harbor to anchor for the night, which is more than a 20 miles up the outside coast toward Cross Sound. They were making it pretty apparent why some of the young never get old. 7 miles 268 total

6-20-15. We all made the mile walk to the White Sulfer Hot Springs & for the first time for us there appeared scant instead of scat bear sign on the trail. From my telling Dixie of our last walks there, she was bear nervous, I think at the start, but relaxed shortly after. When we were her in 2012, we walked in the first time & almost two months later when coming back through here, I went over in the Mokai. At that time the structure over the covered spring pool was being replaced & later the forest service cabin too, along with improvement on the trail. They did a first rate job on both the cabin & pool building & not so much with the trail. On the run from here on the outside waters to Imperial Passage & Didrickson Bay it was with a stunning rare blue sky view of the snow topped mountains of the Chichagof Island wilderness. The waters were calm enough to do it at displacement speed on one motor just like the previous day going out Lisianski Strait to Porkypine Bay. 11 miles today 279 total

6-21-15 Slow cruised the inside water run from Didrickson Bay to the head of Klag Bay off the old Chichagof Gold Mine site. Stopped at Black Bay for bear viewing. Only a Mama bear with Cubs there. Both the Discovery & us have the 25 lb Manson Boss anchor. The bottom in Black Bay is loose sand & gravel. I could get it to hold if not applying to much reverse power, but it just drug with Discovery in the light wind. We, I think are both hoping the anchor does better in the usual type bottom here.

Upon reaching the old mine site, I made a several mile run on the Mokai & walked through the old mine & town site. Of all the buildings that used to be here for 5000 people, I could find only two still standing. One, the machine shop with its big heavy timbering & the other, the gold processing building with the remains of a kiln inside. Also, the remains of a old wooden boat rotting up in the trees & alder area. Unlike prior times here, I saw very little bear sign. 23 miles 302 total.

6-22-15. Another blue sky all around fantastic day. With the very low bear sign, JoLee agreed to make a walk through the old mine & town site too, then up anchor & we all headed up to the entrance channel of even more remote Sister Lake. The entrance channel here though fairly deep has fast moving water when at other than slack tide & rocks. With their larger boat, Brent didn't want to enter & spend the night in Sister Lake, a prudent decision. When we arrived to check out the entrance at its mid ebb tide state, I knowing the channel decided to make a quick run in & out. It turned out fun, exciting & successful. From there we cruised out Elbow Passage to Slocum Arm of Khaz Bay & checked out Ford Arm off Slocum for bears. We saw a mama with her three Cubs there. Next down to Falcon Arm where we are now anchored for the night. We had two bears here by our anchorage this afternoon & evening. Brent & Dixie went back out Falcon Arm & caught some rock fish near where they had set the scrimp traps on the way in. They will be checking them with anticipation in the morning. Weather report is for a front coming in bringing 25 knot winds & 11 foot seas to the outside, so we are planning on staying in the Slocum Arm area for a few days until the seas calm again for the run to Sitka. All of this area we have been in since leaving Pelican 5 days ago is in the Chichagof-Yakobi Wilderness & only accessed from the open Gulf of Alaska, so a very remote & wild place. 33 miles today 335 total.

6-23-15. JoLee & I are thinking of & wondering how our granddaughter Olive's 5th Birthday went today. We are having a wonderful time, but are also very much missing her & all the other grandchildren & their parents. Today we slowly cruised down to Hidden Cove near the head of Slocum Arm, where we are now anchored for the night. No scrimp, but Dixie cooked up a delicious rock fish dinner from the fish Brent had caught & prepared yesterday & had us over to their boat for it this evening. It's fun getting together & having more detailed conversation that what's done over the radio during the day. Later, I took a several mile ride on the Mokai & saw one bear. So far all the Bears have been skittish, much more so then in years past, making for no close video or photos. I still have no doubt we will find some this summer yet, that aren't camera or otherwise shy. 14 miles today 349 total.

6-24-15. Awoke to another warm blue sky day. Out Hidden Cove in the Mokai & immediately saw a bear along the shore. I went back to our anchorage hoping it would mosey by the Discovery & us at anchorage. It disappeared instead. Later we headed out to Piehle Passage to leave a track in it's intricate passage from Slocum Arm to the outside waters for when we make way for Sitka. I have a route set up for it & video on YouTube, but unfortunately no tracks saved & the GPS tracks in the past not accurate anyway. This time through the IPad & my Garmin charts were both accurate along with Brent's on Discovery. At the head of Slocum Arm & in other places both Discovery's & our charts were way off, with many instances of us being on land instead of water. Upon returning to Slocum Arm Brent & Dixie tried some more fishing & we headed back to our anchorage in Falcon Arm. There a Mama bear & her cubs were along the shore to greet us, but only shortly with a quick dash to the alders. As I'm writing this another bear has come out & is along the shore by us eating sedge grass. I called Discovery, who are just around the point in another small cove to inform them a bear might be headed there way. The blue sky's turned to rain & wind this afternoon & then late this evening to just a steady rain. We find the rain if not constant to actually be a pleasure, while snug in our little boat with the Wallas diesel heater/cooker working. This has been another wonderful day shared with great company in the Chichagof-Yakobi wilderness along the remote Gulf of Alaska coast of Southeast Alaska.

6-25-15 some gusty winds during the night that calmed by morning with a partial blue sky. Knowing the outside waters were supposed to increase to 11 foot seas & ran as on its way we went to shore, started a fire, burned the garbage & then enjoyed sitting by it most of the day, especially after the arrival of Brent & Dixie, along with rusty in their rubber dingy. After on & off showers the rain turned steady & we all returned to our boats & have been reading into the late evening.

Some of the differences we have noticed this trip form our past cruises on this area are the Bears being much more leery. No rain from Pelican to last evening. That's a whole week. In 2012 we only had that many days without rain in all of our almost three month cruise & it being very similar in 2007 & 2010. The outside waters have also been much calmer with long weather hold ups being the past norm. The outside seas have been calm much of the last 10 days & following this present front will likely lay back down for our run to Sitka, Sat or Sun. Also there are many sea otters in places we never saw them before. The lack of others cruise boats here is still much like the past & good to see.

6-26-15. Awakened at 3 AM by howling winds & a bouncing boat. We had expected the storm with rain & high winds to come down channel from the head, so we had anchored very near the head wanting minimal fetch for wave wind building. With the winds screaming up channel instead the anchor line was taunt with the boat only about 20 yards from shore & in only 8 feet of water. The electronic chart said we weren't dragging anchor, but in case it might we warmed up both motors & sat in the poor light wiping fog off the windows while intently watching the chart & shoreline for unwanted movement. All of this going on while Brent & Dixie were tied to a buoy on a another small cove more out of the main wind path & though being bounced a bit & their tomcat hull being slapped some, they otherwise had a much more restful night than us. When the wind slackened enough to safely pull anchor, we pulled it & re anchored in the cove near Brent & Dixie. In the process, I found our anchor very firmly set & us in reality having no real worry. In fact, I had to maneuver directly over the anchor & use considerable boat power to get it free for the windless to bring up. So far I'm liking the new for this trip cruise, 25# Manson Boss anchor. It's night like this, that a good anchor set up is really appreciated & makes all the difference between a successful cruise & a disasters one. Following re anchoring in the Cove near Brent & Dixie (the reason for anchoring in the other cove was for better bear viewing & we did see 4 bears before dark) & getting an another hours sleep we decided to again head for Sister Lake, the extremely remote salt water chuck that so few other cruisers have seen & so interested us on our 2007 cruise & all following since. With timing the tides we entered the narrow entrance near the end of the flood & after an hour of touring the lake looking for bears & watching the numerous sea otters & seals, left after the start of the ebb. On the way back to Falcon Arm we met Brent & Dixie near the entrance of Ford Arm & cruised together to where we are both tonight at the cove near the head of Falcom Arm. The weather today went from the very windy heavy rain morning to occasional rain & blue sky this afternoon to a beautiful calm water evening. 44 miles today & 414 total

6-27-15. Back to Sister Lake again today, this time with Brent & Dixie too. Again timed the narrow entrance for a slack tide & entered without delay or difficulty. Brent & Dixie & their Discovery are now the only other cruise boat, that I'm aware of besides us & Steve Oberto to have entered this remarkable wilderness in a already exceptional wilderness area. Upon anchoring here for the night Brent remarked "It is more like being on a high mountain lake than ocean waters". So far, we have seen three separate older bears here & was able to approach one close enough for Dixie to take photos. Steve Oberto told me in 2010, he brought his Maxamo just in & out the narrow entrance. Brent & Dixie can now also testify that it would have been a very tight fit!!
The weather this morning was high clouds with touch or two of blue & now at 6 PM they have lowered & rain is falling. Until the clouds lowered this anchorage had an exceptional view looking out between the small islands to the tree covered mountains that are topped on the horizon by bare sharp peaks with their small remaining snow patches. 7:30 PM. A seal bumped the boat twice something we have not experienced before & while looking for it noticed a bear very close along the shore beside our anchored boat. Called the Discovery to have them watch for it where they were anchored a short distance away around a point & the radio noise caused it to return to the bush but not before photos. What another Sister Lake, Alaska experience. 25 miles today & 439 total

6-28-15. We slept until about 7AM then I went on a several mile Mokai ride followed by more cruising of Sister Lake. We saw another 6 bears including a mama with three very young cubs & then exited through the narrow inlet channel on a late flood tide of about a 4 mph currant. We hope to again see this intriguing area in a future year. With plans of making the outside water run to Sitka tomorrow morning we anchored for the night under the Khaz Head in a cove just off & midway through Piehle Passage, which is the shortcut south out of Khaz Bay, Slocum Arm to the outside Gulf Of Alaska waters. From this anchorage tonight we can hear the rumble of the waves on the ragged rocks that protect it & see the white of them breaking & also hear the distant fog horn off the Khaz Bay entrance & it reminds me of the fog horn out of Noyo Harber, Fort Bragg, CA, which in my youth it & the breaking waves a constant sound when at our family camping spot south of there. Tonight is our eleventh in a role anchored out in a variety of beautiful coves all in this remote wilderness area since leaving Pelican. We are looking forward to seeing Sitka again, but sad to be leaving this wilderness area that keeps drawing us back. 18 miles today & 457 total

[Hunkydory]

6-29-15. Up at 5AM for 6AM departure out of Piehle Passage in the fog & rain. Morning wind was supposed to be light & variable. It wasn't blowing strong, but certainly not light & variable. The seas were not much more than the called for 3 feet, though in the fairly shallow water out of Peihle Passage they were building some more than that with a rough edge. With the fog & rain if it had been our first such experience it would have been very intimidating, especially coming out of this intricate passage, now only accelerating. I was somewhat surprised that JoLee was taking it all in stride also. The rain quit & fog lifted after not much more than an hour. As we made our way into Salisbury Sound, the swells gradually diminished & then finally only smooth water for the remainder of the inner channel route into Sitka. Brent pointed out a bear as passed through Whitestone Narrows & it was just across from where JoLee & I had seen a sow & Cubs on our last transit here. Close to Sitka radio traffic was indicated the docks were full with a long waiting list due to the combination of a Salmon fishing fleet opening, the up coming 4th of July holiday period & the now normal influx of a considerable increase of summer pleasure cruisers. With the Sitka's Harbor capacity of 1600 dock spaces, they fortunately did find both of us a place, but not without some apprehension, so here we are for most likely the next 6 days, which includes the 4th of July. With a storm that's supposed to be bringing big waves to this area & the one we just left it's going to be a good place to be. 49 miles today & 506 total

[Jack in Alaska]

Jay,
I envy your adventurous ways. You are my C-Dory idol.
Be safe and keep in touch.
Jack in Alaska

[Hunkydory]

Jack,

Thank you & I regard your compliments very high as I know you have been out & about yourself & also know what it takes to safely return or value an experience so much as to be willing to raise the risk factor of possibly not.

Jay

[bcassal]

Jay,

Thank you so much for all your postings on your travels. I can't tell you how much it has meant to on this trip. I have had way too much time on my hands due to a medical situation and I have following Brent's track as you are moving (in the afternoons here). I also watch the nautical charts on active captain and have been pretty good at anticipating your anchorages. I have also been reading your 2012 log and pictures. It's almost like I'm on the trip. I admire your adventurous spirit and your seamanship skills.
Following your trip has been a great boost to my spirits. I'll be anxious to pick it up again when you get moving. Give a nod to the bears for me.

Bruce Cassal
Carpy

[Hunkydory]

Bruce,

Much thanks for your post. Your, Jacks & ones like it make the 5 mile round trip hike to the new library here lugging my heavy 17 inch Dell to up load the photos very much worth it. Now that we've finally have the bus schedule worked out the future trips to town will be considerable less, though on this huge harbor complex with us being on the far end, its very near 3/4 mile round trip to the shower or toilet complex over the boardwalk. Viewing all the huge variety of fishing & cruising boats does make it seem shorter.

I also very much enjoy following along studying the charts & tracks, while reading of others adventures when I'm unable to go myself.

I sure hope your medical condition improves, so you too can do get back to enjoying boating or other adventures.

Jay

[Hunkydory]

Brent informed me today that the "Murray" store here in Sitka sells the Delorme In Reach, like he is using, so since my SPOT quit working on the road trip up to Skagway, I decided to purchase one & set up a account. From viewing Brent & Dixie's, it to me is better than SPOT with its more detailed map & a track that doesn't disappear in 7 days, so here is the link to our track https://explore.delorme.com/Map this is now also included in my post signature, instead of the non working link to SPOT.

For those interested in our travels in the Mokai, it should with its very good map detail, show when we are out & about from anchorages too, if I can remember to take it with me.

Tonight here in Sitka they're getting a jump on the 4th with pretty much non stop fireworks along the shore across from the Marina, which will shorty be followed up by a town display.

Jay

[Jack in Alaska]

Jay....
I also envy you being in Sitka. If I could do a re-do of my retirement I would have sold out in 2000 in S.Central and moved to Sitka. I was through there in 1965 and twice more recently all on the ferry. A great place to live in my estimation.
Be safe.
Jack

[Hunkydory]

Jack, I too have been impressed with Sitka on each visit here & always look forward to returning, though this years doubling of the daily dock rate since our last time here in 2012 was a bit of a negative surprise. I guess that comes with others liking it here too.

Jay

[Hunkydory]

[Casey]

Jay,

Which data package did you select? As I recall deLorme offers choices ranging from ten minutes down to reporting every two minutes (pretty pricey, but superb detail).

We're still in NYC. They had a really nice fireworks display last night (actually several, from different locations) but it wasn't two hours! Sounds like Sitka outdid itself!

What is your route from Sitka?

I layed out a route yesterday for the Erie Canal; pretty complex navigation challenge. From our slip, we proceed east approx 650yards ... turn left
and proceed 150.3sm up the Hudson ... turn left again at the Erie Canal!

Best,
Casey&Mary

[Hunkydory]

Good morning Casey & Mary,

Yes, great detail with In Reach, so much better than SPOT & it doen't erase the tracks after 7 days. I selected the freedom recreation 10 min tracking plan & still haven't worked out the messaging & other details. The freedom plan is 10$ more than just recreation, but allows plan to be stopped & started whenever. Still when used its pricy at 35$ per month & the unit here in Sitka at close to $400 expensive too.

I like your simple upcoming route plans. Ours from here over to Warm Springs & Red Bluff Bay with out exact plans from there yet. We're just minutes from shoving off from here now.

Best Wishes,

Jay & Jolee

[Hunkydory]

7-5-15 With a later start then we should have had, we left Sitka at a little after 10AM. 20 knot winds on the bow later, while at the head of Salisbury Sound would have been less with an earlier start, but perhaps worth the relaxed ending of our good times in Sitka. Anchored on Baby Bear Bay a favorite of mine for the run from Sitka to Chatham Strait with its good bottom for holding & excellent protection from the wind. It has been another blue sky day with Mt Edgecumbe showing itself off as we made our way back north from Sitka. We took Sergius Narrows by way of Canoe Passage, which was running 7 mph, which made for an interesting ride.
37 miles today & 543 total

7-6-15 Had a wonderful day even without seeing a single bear. Up & out of Baby Bear Bay at 8AM with a continuation of this years unique blue sky days from which the only present draw back is a huge fire out of Wrangle creating a very smokey, hazy, but at least still blue sky. It was a pretty much normal run on Peril Strait, then going down Chatham Strait along the rugged snow capped mountains of Baranof Island brought one wildlife encounter after another. We had dall porpoise riding the bow & the shyer more pure black type in several groups of 2 or three appearing & disappearing, several humpback whales, another pod of orcas that passed us just feet away, sea lions & many Eagles. Then just before reaching our nights anchorage at Ell Cove silver salmon jumping all about. Brent & Dixie slowed cast out a line & within seconds had caught a 10 pounder. We are now anchored in a beautiful totally calm cove surrounded by large old trees with a family of Eagles doing there antics along with their variety of sounds. We will be sleeping peaceful tonight with it now being a very short 30 days since leaving home. 56 miles today 599 total.

[Hunkydory]

7-7-15 We awakened to another bear along the shore in Ell Cove, which was icing on the cake to all the the varied wildlife we had seen yesterday. From Ell cove with destination for the day Warm Springs Bay, we detoured to check out Takatz Bay, one of our favorites along this coast, where in 2012, we saw whales when entering, bears along the shore & anchored where the ebb tide left us high & dry until it's return. No wildlife here today, but the yacht Rhapsady, which was anchored by U.S. In Ell Cove & Baby Bear Bay beat us here too. This is the yacht & same owners who invited us aboard for homemade sticky buns & fresh ground coffee in 2007, while in Red Bluff Bay just after our diesel cooker/heater quit & we had lost our video camera. When reminiscing with them in Ell Cove yesterday we were very surprised at how well they remembered us & the details of the last visit. Upon reaching Warm Springs Bay & checking out the new hot tubs for public use, we had a fabulous dinner aboard the Discovery of fresh salmon caught by Brent & prepared by him & Dixie. Sharing the Alaska State free dock here at Warm springs Bay is a variety of other boats of which some are multi million dollar boats & I'll bet none had better food or company then us. Late in the evening I headed up to the hot spring tubs for a relaxing couple hour soak that put the final touches on another wonderful Alaska cruising day. 18 miles today 617 total.

7-8-15. We spent hours today in interesting conversation with the varied boat owners, & passengers, which ranged from smallish cruising boats, that were still much bigger than us to commercial fishing boats of varies sizes & types, to a large old sail boat here with paying passengers, to multi million dollar yachts. Walked with Brent & Dixie up to Lake Baranof, which is the beautiful alpine lake, who's drainage creates the large cascade close the the dock at the head of Warm Springs Bay. Then JoLee & I, soaked for a couple of hours in a hot tube with its grand view looking out over the bay. This is a place not listed high on our 2007 cruise, which has grown over our visits to become now one of the favorites. I love the wilderness & prefer it's wild places, but Warm Springs Bay, a scenic oasis mixed with its variety of people & boats, makes for interesting entertainment & conversation, while surrounded by true wilderness in a unique & special place.