Second anchor suggestions

[thataway]

I have used the combination of a Danforth and CQR in a Bahamian moor for several days, in the ICW off Beaufort N.C. The problem was that the two rodes wrapped around each other. A better set would have been with chain, then a swivel near the bottom, and a single rode to the boat. I have no idea why the boat always went around the center point in the same direction…(Rudder was straight ahead.)

For those who are not familiar with the Bahamian moor, you drop one anchor, set it well, then go at 180 degrees to the current direction, and the distance for the scope of a second anchor (good reason to carry lots of rode), and set the second anchor, so that the boat is riding to one or the other of the anchor as the current shifts. We always set the CQR first, since often it had to drag a little before we got a good set--the Danforth HT usually set within a few feet. On that particular boat we had two windlasses. One was manual, and had two chain chain gypsies, and two capstan heads. The electric had a chain gypsy on one side and a cat head on the other side. This made for a lot of versatility when mooring, especially since we carried 3 anchors on the bow sprit, and another two lashed on the deck just aft of the windlasses.

[Larry Patrick]

Like the idea of having 2 anchors out when overnighting. My boat came with 25 manson supreme,I still have 15lb manson from old boat. I put all that in a milk crate and found myself moving it last weekend. Shape of the manson takes up good amount of space. Think I will put chain and rode in lazeret get the fortress fx 7 and store that inside large storage inside. Seemed like everything was in the way this trip,going to get more organized next trip.

[Sunbeam]

[Larry Patrick]

Thanks Sunbeam makes sense.

[Sunbeam]

One probably-obvious thing I could have mentioned is that of course the non-swinging of having two anchors (if they are set bow and stern, not Bahamian moor or other way) can be a plus. For example, if anchored in a calm and narrow side channel, where you want to lie parallel to the bank and not swing out.

For more typical anchoring situations I've tended to just set one good hook I trust (and then swing), because it seems simpler and allows the boat to do what it wants to vis-a-vis wind and waves. And if I don't trust my one anchor/rode (in principle) then I figure that probably means I should beef it up. That said, I have a few times set two bow anchors in a V shape with the C-Dory --- because it helped damp down the major sailing at anchor (which I didn't experience with previous boats) (hello, boat like a leaf!). This was in locations where I wasn't going to be going all the way around and tangling the rodes, and there was no-one else around me. I led them both over the bow roller.

I really enjoy being on a boat at anchor. The boat is "free" to move in its element (as opposed to being tied to a dock I mean - one hopes it doesn't become totally free of course!). There is the factor where you maybe have to get up at 3 a.m. (and 4 a.m. and 5 a.m.) sometimes, but it's still fantastic overall

[Kushtaka]

I don't like two anchors. I've done it, and had it go well, and had it go poorly. When it goes poorly it's worse than no anchor at all. The big thing is to avoid a spot where wind and currents will not have you turning in full circles. There are other devices that dampen some of the sailing experienced on these boats that I'd try before two anchors. But, to each his own! I'm likely anchoring in deeper water with more current than most, so it is likely the environment I'm in that has me wary.

I have put a drogue or a bucket on a line off the stern when wind and current aren't aligned and it helped keep the boat in the current and mitigate the effects of the wind. As you likely know, our boats like to lie stern quarter to the wind, which is common. This means when anchoring in any current the wind is likely to cause problems as it will want your boat to lie differently than the current will. If anchoring near shore, in sheltered waters, this is when a stern line to a tree is good, but that main anchor better be holding or you may have some gelcoat repairs or worse!

[Sunbeam]

Kushtaka,

Agreed, two anchors is something I only do rarely, because if it goes wrong.... not good. And normally there is no need anyway.

I've used two anchors around a half dozen times, but that's in many nights at anchor, so definitely the vast minority. A couple of examples: One night in a side creek off a side creek off the ICW. Extremely sheltered and shallow, basically in the reeds, with excellent holding. A single bow anchor (as usual) and then a stern anchor taken out in the dinghy and set to hold the boat parallel with the bank, out of the channel.

I used two anchors in a V shape on Powell for a night with a strong wind but a predictable direction. These were both essentially bow anchors - the V was all forward of the beam. It was somewhat experimental (not something I've done on a bigger boat). It did work well for keeping the swing down to ... well, let's say "less far reaching proportions." In this case it was very unlikely that the boat would shift around far enough for the rodes to tangle, but of course anything is possible. I had the anchors buoyed in case I needed to drop one.

I also used two anchors on Powell (main bow and secondary stern) in some super sheltered coves with flat calm conditions (and no wind predicted). There would not have been room to swing in these locations. I set it up so that I was facing "outbound" and so if I had to drop the stern anchor I could pull forward on the bow anchor and get safely away from the stern rode on my way out. Could something go wrong? Of course, but I tried to do my best to make it work out. In general, like you, I prefer to swing to a single hook.

And too, with the C-Dory, I'm learning my way. I've done things with it that I wouldn't have dreamed of doing with the bigger boat, and one of my challenges is to sort out the "stupidly un-seamanlike" from the "well there's no reason not to do this, considering the boat and the conditions." That's a challenge for me. But if I didn't at least try, the boat would have sunk long ago -- not from a stupid move underway, but from the weight of the cleats, anchor, and chain that "seem right" to me for a boat! But not for a 22.

[Kushtaka]

The happiest I've been on two anchors was when I took about 150' of line and connected two anchors to it, then used a swivel attachment to my rode, so the two anchors were essentially bridled. I had a poly buoy attached to the back of each anchor with p-cord.

So I had two anchors (deployed with the dinghy, well apart, and the ability to rotate on that tackle. Plus, if it got bad and I needed to start motoring I could pull up to the swivel, disconnect, drop the anchors back down, and come retrieve them later.

There was no real need for me to do this, and conditions were just fine for one anchor, but it seemed like a decent system that avoided some of the problems of two anchors while keeping some of the benefits. I'm sure any downside would have revealed themselves if I was trying this in less than great conditions.

[Blue Rose]

I am considering switching to a 13lb Mantus as the primary anchor for my CD22. Currently I have an 11lb Lewmar Claw and a 10lb Danforth type. Both work ok in sand and soft mud but neither set consistently on grassy/weedy or clay bottoms commonly found in fresh water lake conditions. Anyone tried a Mantus?

[thataway]

Some of the folks in S. Florida have been using the Manta. From what I can see, and hear, is that they are going to be very similar to the Manson Supreme, and Ronca (Spade also). I doubt that they will be any better in weed or clay.

The criticism of the Manta is that it is bolted, and does not seem to have as much weight in the point of the fluke.

When we were long distance cruising, we carried 3 anchors--the Danforth (more recently the Fortress, for Mud), a plow (CQR genuine) or Delta, for average sand, rocks, etc, and a Fisherman, luke type. I had my storm anchor as a 150 lb Fisherman (Fortunately broke down into 3 fifty lb parts. I used 1/2" chain and 1" line--heavy gear!

I had a classic fisherman built in Bodrum Turkey, by a blacksmith recommended by the local boaters. He made it as I watched, and did not use an arc welding--it was all done on the forge. It was a classic 70 lb fisherman, with very sharp spikes on the end of the flukes, and the edges of the flukes could be kept sharp with a file (no galvanizing--it just rusted a bit--and the stock folded, so you could lay it along side the bow sprit.

That was the best anchor for grass and clay. Before I had this made, I had to dive, with a small axe, cut the grass/roots aside, and make a place for the CQR to start burying.

I have a lighter similar anchor in my front yard: Looks seaman like. --But I also have a WWII folding Stainless Steel sea plane anchor. A work of art--spiked flukes which are sharp….of course being of SS, it doesn't rust, and you can keep those flukes sharp. The Northill Pattern anchor is the closest thing you can find to this anchor--and I may still have one of these around also. I am getting along in years, and might be persuaded to sell the sea plane anchor…

This is not my anchor, and I got the photo off the web, but it links to NavGear, our own
Tim::

http://www.navagear.com/2010/01/05/northill-folding-anchor-a-piece-of-history-that-still-serves-well-aboard-many-craft/

Here is another like from there:

http://anchors.synthasite.com/northill-anchor.php

Actually the Northhill pattern anchor is one of the most commonly used anchors in the world--often by 3rd world fisherman who have the anchor welded up at a local machine shop. I have heard that there are several shops in Pensacola, who have a pattern, and make the anchors for the shrimping fleet and fishing boats.

[Larry Patrick]

Just received Fortress FX 7, had to assemble it. Wondering if you guys put locktite on those little bolts on the mud flange brackets? Hard to get wrench in that recessed area ,after I cranked everything tight ,thought no lock washers ,should have used lock tite? May take it to a welder and have him spot weld threads so they cant come lose. Nice light anchor,going to anchor with it next time out just to try it.

[thataway]

Have not used Lottie, even on anchor used on much larger boat. When I sold this anchor, these nuts were tight, but easy to remove.

[Larry Patrick]

Thanks Dr Bob for taking time to answer newbie questions,saves me a trip to find a welder that could weld aluminum or whatever fx7 is made of.

[conunuu]