G4 HT chain for windlasses

ferret30 · Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 3:39 pm Post subject:

I'd just like to point out that I'm at work today (self imposed) and I'd rather be installing my anchor roller and fixing my bilge pump.

Also, I read some horror stories about some of you guys launching without a drain plug in. That could be a huge mess, and although I've been keeping my drain plug on my boat keychain as a reminder when it's not installed, I decided to go one step further. My boat came with a few extra plugs so I used a very small zip tie to hang another spare plug in the bilge area. That way if the boat starts taking on water at the launch I would have a decent chance of getting it in.

PS - Can you tell I'm focused on work?

journey on · Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 9:15 pm Post subject:

ferret30,
This summer I changed out the Lewmar V600 windlass for a V700, though not by choice. A V700 is the most common anchor windlass on a C-Dory, other than the human back. The V700 is a slightly larger unit than the V600, redesigned and now made in Thailand. I now can speak with some authority as to the type of line it will take.

The Lewmar catalog says that the V700 is designed for medium lay 3 strand or plaited line (1/2" dia.) The new gypsy would not grip the old 3 strand line we've been using for 6 years unless I tailed it. I can only assume that it was because the line was too stiff to be gripped by the gypsy being salt soaked etc. What I did was buy some Samson 6 plait line, 200 ft, from Redden Marine in Bellingham. Great price and Sampson is made in Washington. Soak before using.

Comparing the 700 gypsy with the V600, one can see that the V600 has slightly more depth and gripping surface for the rope. The old 1/4" HS chain worked great.

By the way Sea Wolf, what kind of chain does one use for overhead lifting? All the links, bolt eyes, etc. that I buy are now marked "not for overhead lifting." So what is used? Only plain grade 80/100?

Boris

ferret30 · Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 9:26 pm Post subject:

Those prices at Redden are great, but unfortunately I've already placed the order with Defender on Friday. Oh well, thanks for the tip!

Sea Wolf · Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 1:24 am Post subject:

ferret30 · Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 1:52 pm Post subject:

Darn it! I got my big 60lb shipment from Defender yesterday, with 50' of 1/4" G43 HT, 200' of 1/2" 3 strand line, and 2 5/16" Crosby shackles. The line and chain are fine, but the shackles have lobes (made that one up) too big to fit through the last link on the chain! So the only way I can attach the chain to the anchor with this shackle is like this:

This seems like it would put a lot of stress on the shackle, and prematurely wear through the galvanizing on the anchor since the curved shackle is contacting the anchor at two sharp points (the edges of the hole through the anchor). It seems like it would be better for the shackle and anchor if the pin of the shackle went through the anchor hole -- more contact / less wear.

I thought 5/16" would work fine, but maybe these Crosby ones are different. That was the only non-import galv shackle I could find on Defender.

Chris · Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 6:55 pm Post subject:

The diagram shows the proper way...this will result is the least amount of stress when the boat veers. Otherwise the load on the anchor will result in bending or breaking.
Don't forget to secure the pin with seizing wire.

thataway · Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 7:50 pm Post subject:

Agree with Chris--there are no shackles which will fit thru the chain--and should not. Sometimes it is necessary to use two shackles--U to U:pin thru the chain, and pin thru the anchor stock.

For shorter use of shackles, I use quality electrical ties, rather than monel wire. I had to cut one off today--been on an anchor for several years--and I had to use a serrated knife to cut it. Probably as good as a wire, less likely to cut your hand or finger.

ferret30 · Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 8:08 pm Post subject:

Thanks guys -- one less thing to send back!

chucko · Posted: Sun May 31, 2015 12:41 pm Post subject: Chain sizing

Can someone explain what constitutes short link chain?
I measured my quarter inch chain today and links are1.5 inches long.
I'm having trouble hauling up my last 2 ft of anchor,with clutch slipping.
Windlass is maxwell RC 6 and was replaced new when I got it and the rode was on it then ,so I'm not sure what I have, and maybe the reason for slipping. I have adj the clutch already.thanks

thataway · Posted: Sun May 31, 2015 4:13 pm Post subject:

Generally "Short link" refers to BBB chain. This is what the manual for your windlass calls for. Most of the windlass in this size are for G4 or System 40 chain--Hi Test. These windlass all are calibrated for 1/4" chain (which is the diameter (approximately) of the metal of the link.

The actual link size is not much different--the number of links per foot is 14.0 for BBB and 14.2 for System 40. The actual link measurement is also only slightly different: BBB outside is 1.44", vs 1.39" for G4 or System 40. Coil proof chain is typically longer: Many of the chain manufactures give the inside of the link dimensions, because of difference of the thickness of the steel, but the Proof coil is closer to 1.50" or 9.84 links per foot.

I suspect that you have proof coil chain. (That is what my boat came with, and I took the 100 feet off the boat).

Also the vertical axis windlass is more prone to slipping than is the horizontal axis windlass, because of the geometry.

How much "fall" under the windlass is there at the end of your anchor hoist?
Often this is the problem. There should be at least a foot, and with a vertical axis windlass, it is far better if two feet.

One solution for you is to switch to Brait or any 8 plait line. It stores in about half of the space of what 3 strand stores in. Also switching to G4 or System 40 chain will also improve the handling. (Just takes money!). It is possible that the chain gypsy has become worn from some mismatch of the chain--and that can be contributing to the problem.

chucko · Posted: Sun May 31, 2015 6:51 pm Post subject:

Thanks Bob ,that's the kind of info I was looking for. I count 12 links per ft, and no visible markings on chain, I'll call Maxwell tomorrow, west marine states no specific link length required , only quarter inch specified.

thataway · Posted: Sun May 31, 2015 11:30 pm Post subject:

Lay the chain around the gypsy, you should be able to tell if it is fitting. A miss match is evident on the last link you place around the gypsy (a bit harder to see with the vertical axis.

chucko · Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 6:58 pm Post subject:

I called maxwell tech support today and they said G4 is the stuff to use. They also recommended what u said, lay it in the wheel and see how it fits. Thx

Pandion · Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 5:07 pm Post subject:

chucko · Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 12:50 pm Post subject:

Changed out the old chain with the correct quarter in G4 and problem solved,much smoother and not jumping or hanging CoolSmile