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Lazarette hatch Replacement

 
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CDory23



Joined: 23 Nov 2011
Posts: 227

State or Province: CA
Photos: CDory23
PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 6:56 pm    Post subject: Lazarette hatch Replacement Reply with quote

As many have had leaky lazarette issues I have the same on my 2003 22 Cruiser. I found multiple threads and researched before posting this. Unfortunately I missed out on this deal on this informative thread

http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=13378&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0


My question is does anybody know of the replacement hatch that will fit right in our cut out? I looked at Bomar and Fisheries supply and could not find the exact dimensions. I would really like to pick up a pair of these hatches to replace my leaky ones.

Thanks
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CDory23



Joined: 23 Nov 2011
Posts: 227

State or Province: CA
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found this hatch to be the closest fit. Pretty Pricey! Also Found the Bomar 7812 which is close fitting. I will be ordering 2 of these in less I hear of something better from others experience.

http://www.imtra.com/35398ed1-6d06-427f-aefb-27073c2ab906/other-products-access-hatches-detail.htm

I noticed quit a bit of rot when I removed my old hatches. Very glad I'm doing this. What would be the best method to remove this? Just sand down until I reach dry wood?


Thanks
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ssobol



Joined: 27 Oct 2012
Posts: 3373
City/Region: SW Michigan
State or Province: MI
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SoBELLE
Photos: SoBelle
PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might check with Defender. I think I got mine from them for about $75 ea a little more than a year ago. Defender has to special order them though. They can't be returned.

This is their email to me:

Quote:
Thank you for your interest in Defender. We do not stock the hatches but can special order them for $ 74.99 each. If you choose to order you will have to call in, as specials cannot be purchased through our website, and refer to part SPSPA-40154 . Please be aware that special orders cannot be cancelled once placed nor can be returned.
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CDory23,

That picture looks pretty close. I can check tomorrow when I get back to the boat. Getting my Vessel Safety Inspection done tomorrow. Thumbs Up Thumbs Up



Harvey
SleepyC Moon


In this pix, these are the old style, close look shows the bolt heads showing and also the crack between the lid and the surround, where the water gets down into the laz.

_________________
Though in our sleep we are not conscious of our activity or surroundings, we should not, in our wakefulness, be unconscious of our sleep.
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srbaum



Joined: 30 Aug 2010
Posts: 877
City/Region: Portsmouth
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 26 Venture
Vessel Name: Osprey
Photos: Osprey
PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CDory23,
This was one of the best improvements that my boat has seen. Constantly dealing with water in the lazarettes including shorting out fuse holders made me crazy.
I purchased my hatches from Fisheries Supply, Inc. Their part number was SOP SPA-40154, at $67 each and shipping was free.
The removal of the old hatches took time, as they were cemented using silicone sealer. First, I taped the surface around the perimeter with painters tape, from the outer edge of the old hatch frame outwards several inches. After removal of the sheet metal screws, I used multiple putty knives and a rubber mallet to carefully get the knives under an edge, then continued working the knives, once under the hatch frame and hammered in several putty knives on top of each other to carefully break the silicone bond. Once removed, I cleaned up the fiberglass surface with solvent.
The installation of the new hatches went quicker that I expected. I did have to make a wooden spacer for one edge of the interior of the boat. Once the shim was made, I cleaned all old screw holes and epoxied the shim in place and also filled the old screw holes. After the epoxy was cured, I taped off the perimeter the boats fiberglass surface, around where the new hatches would be mounted. Next I marked the holes for the new screws, drilled holes oversize and chamfered the gelcoat at the hole entry. Next, after that epoxy was cured, drilled the new screw holes to the correct size. Lastly I bedded the new hatches to the deck using white butyl rubber tape (purchased this tape last year from Sailrite, their part number was 103689).
NO MORE LEAKS!!!
One other thing that bugged be about the old hatches was that they were mounted with the hinge side inboard, which made it awkward to get into the compartment. Now the new hatches have the hinges on the outboard side, so access is a heck of a lot better.

_________________
Steve Baum
Homeport of Portsmouth, VA
OSPREY (Ex Mister Sea) 2000 22 C-Dory 2010 - Sold 3/19
OSPREY (Ex ADITI) 2007 26 Cape Cruiser 2018
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Rcbeach



Joined: 30 Oct 2012
Posts: 59
City/Region: Ocean Pines
State or Province: MD
C-Dory Year: 2014
C-Dory Model: R-25 Tug
Vessel Name: DreamChaser
PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CDory23,

I have an early 2012 22' which had the old style covers which leaked profusely. Sometime later in 2012 or 2013 the 22s were built with a completely different hatch. I called the C-Dory factory and found out the manufacture and part number for the new hatches. The new hatch is a Bomar Inspection Hatch with positive twist latch. These hatches can be obtained from Defender, part number 901349, at a cost of $57.99.

For my 22 this new hatch is a direct replacement with no additional cutting of the deck or adding spacers. However the mounting holes are different. You could call Defender and get the inside dimensions to see if they would be a direct replacement for your 22.

The process that Steve Baum suggested for installing the new hatches is basically what I used, thanks Steve. I am very satisfied with the new hatches, no leaking from rain, heavy sea spray or washing the boat.

Good luck in your repair,

Dick Clagett
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20810
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Regardless of which hatch you use, be sure and rout out the balsa core, about the edge of the cutout. Fill this are with thickened epoxy. Fill old screw holes with thickened epoxy. Drill the new holes for the new hatch, enlarge, undercut and fill with epoxy.

This will prevent core rot. Yes, there is less chance of rot with the new hatch, but you can still get moisture from around the sealant. For example the forward hatches which leak from around the screw holes or bedding, often develop wet core, and rot.

It is a little more work now, which will save headaches/heartache in the future, and protect the value of the boat.

_________________
Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As mentioned, this update is one of the best I did for the boat. I did mount them with the hinge on the outboard edge, and have had no water in the laz's since then. It was not a hard switch, and my old ones really came out easy: unscrew, and lift.... not enough sealant to hardly make them sticky.

Well worth the $$ and effort.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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