Need trailer advice

ghone · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 2:58 pm Post subject: Need trailer advice

Hi C Brats. I've come to the end of my rope on trailers and have tied a knot. Road Runner tandem with surge brakes. 22,000 miles of towing 4 years old. Maintained by Kal Tire here in Nanaimo and tire shops along our travels. Bearings done at least annually. For the 5th time at least, my wheels are all locked ON after launch, rinse and stored a few weeks. The last time it did this it was taken to Kal Tire on a flat bed truck. All brakes serviced all ok. A couple times since when locked up I got them free by banging on wheels. Today the thing won't budge, brakes serviced in August this year.
My confidence in this trailer is now gone. It would not do to come back to a frozen up trailer while out remote somewhere.
Do I convert this unit to disc brakes, toss this unit, buy a new trailer from Les at EQ and import it to Canada? Who makes the most reliable boat trailer? I want it. Thanks to all of you.

Aurelia · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 3:59 pm Post subject:

Relatively limited salt water dunking experience here but....I have done a lot of brake jobs of vehicles old and new for more years than you might guess. The disc type is much easier to access in a pinch. You can often reach right into the caliper with a slotted screwdriver to unstick a pad and that alone makes then easier to live with. Never had one seize up that I couldn't easily reach and get moving again, at least for the moment. I know your pain with drums in general.

Greg

cmetzenberg · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 4:23 pm Post subject:

It seems odd that all the brakes would fail all at once. Sounds like a faulty signal from the surge hitch or something along those lines.

Hunkydory · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 4:47 pm Post subject:

George, We now have the same milage as you on our EZ loader model TEZB 19-22/24, all trouble free, though I will be changing tires & bearings before our next spring Alaska trip. I bought this made in 2007 year trailer as new in 2010 & before purchase had the dealer make sure it was equipped with electric over hydraulic disk brakes, torsion bar axels, oil bath hubs standard, boat guides & C rated tires that gives it a carrying weight of 4700 pounds & gross weight of trailer & boat of 5900 pounds, which gives all the weight latitude needed to not worry about weight added to the boat on the road. You could purchase a similar trailer for a good deal of $'s or just have the brake's converted if the rest of your present trailer has been ok for you.

Jay

srbaum · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 5:47 pm Post subject:

George,
My EZ-Loader under my C-Dory also had similar problems. I use the trailer so infrequently, that it only exasperates the brake freeze-up problems. Last year I bit the bullet and ordered and installed disc brakes with a new coupler (with solenoid already installed). The installation took me a total of 3 hours and now I could not be happier. The trailer tows and brakes wonderfully. I was so happy with the change, that I did the same thing to my Pacific trailer for my Corsair trimaran several months ago... Again about 3 hours to make the change and it tows wonderfully.

Sunbeam · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 5:59 pm Post subject:

One thought is that if there are no issues with the frame and geometry, you might just upgrade systems. That's what I did when I bought my boat (trailer was good design but had original systems which were old/neglected). I put on all new brakes, lines, coupler, bunks, lights, winch, bearings, tires and probably more that I'm forgetting. Thing is, in many (most?) cases I used better components than might have come on a new trailer. Kodiak disc brakes, Timken Bearings, cypress bunks/monel staples, non-steel brake lines (hoses), LED lights, better wiring, heftier winch, etc. etc.

Just something to consider if you like the frame/geometry etc. on your trailer.

Lost Petrel · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 6:34 pm Post subject:

journey on · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 6:37 pm Post subject:

You might talk to the guys who serviced the trailer. Since it came in on another trailer, I assume they did see the brakes were locked. What did they have to do to get the trailer off the trailer and unlock the brakes?

If nothing, then suspect the hydraulics, which would have a chance to bleed down/off until it got to the repair shop. If that's what the problem is, try a new surge brake assembly. Beats going to disk, though I love disk brakes.

If they said that the drums were stuck, then consider an upgrade. Drums have been used for years, no obvious reason why they should lock up. There's no metal to metal contact between the linings and drums.

The tire shop are the ones who got it working. What did they have to do?

Boris

Sunbeam · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 7:06 pm Post subject:

Will-C · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 8:03 pm Post subject: Need trailer advice

If you are going to continue to trailer for longer trips I would say go with Kodiak disc brakes and electric over hydraulic. It's so much better. Our trailer is an 2009 and we use it mostly to launch in salt water. I'd guess it has close to 40,000 miles on it. I service the wheel bearings, clean and repack with grease, replace grease seals and replace the brake pads annually just for good measure. It takes 1990 Chevy Cavalier front brake pads. Still on the original wheel bearings. We have Kodiak brakes and probably next year I will replace the rotors. But the Kodiak's have worked flawlessly with no parts replaced except for some rubber coated brake lines that got chaffed from rubbing. I upgraded my electric over hydraulic to a 1600 psi unit. Our brakes never worked better. Remember you'll never see a Brinks truck in heaven. I'd get your trailer serviced and sell it. Then order one with all the right stuff from the gitgo.
I'd recommend the torsion bar type suspension with radial tires and get the tires balanced.They ride better. Kodiak brakes with the Dacromet coating on the rotors and calipers or just go all stainless$ and the electric over hydraulic 1600 psi electric brake controller unit.WWW.trailerpartssuperstore.com Type in Kodiak brakes in the product search data field. If you like your trailer then just get the upgrade to Kodiak brakes with either Dacromet coating or stainless with electric over hydraulic 1600 psi unit. Drum brakes and salt water are just plain bad medicine. Been there done that. JMHO
D.D.

ghone · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 8:46 pm Post subject:

Wow! Thanks so much people. We're all in the same boat (literally) when it comes to trailers! Likely I need to go see Les at EQ and get a new King trailer with the works. On this trailer I only know that it was dragged off the flatdeck at the repair yard and the mechanic had some fun getting the drums off. Heat and beat. Obviously disc is preferred over drum and electric/hyd over surge. Thanks so much for the info people. C brats are the best. Will keep you posted.
George

A Fishin C · Guest

This was also my year for trailer woes also. failed hub, bearing and broken trailing arm on torsion suspension. Fixed by Kal tire only for the brake and bearing to fail again in 2 months. Kal tire replaced all parts new under warranty brakes, hubs. I had a tandem King trailer that I really liked on my last boat. Available from EQ but not in Canada.

Sherwood Marine sells Tuff Trailers they look OK. The Roadrunners don't seem to be as well made as they used to be, but they are the cheapest.

Sounds like your best option is to replace your brakes on the Roadrunner if the rest is satisfactory.

williwaw · Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 9:00 pm Post subject:

As suggested you definitely need disc brakes - the question is whether a new trailer comes with them or not Smile

I'm with Hunkydory on the electric-over-hydraulic (EoH) brakes, unless I suppose, you have a massive tow vehicle. Our 23 Venture is pushing 6000 lbs loaded and despite twin axle disc brakes I do not feel confident that a panic stopping situation would end happily. Let alone the fact that when you back down a steep ramp you only have the truck brakes.

So I'm gather the EoH components to do the conversion now. The Titan BrakeRite II components cost about $900. Pacific trailer makes a nice mounting stand to hang all the components on (http://www.pacifictrailers.com/Custom-Mounting-Stand-for-Titan-Brake-Rite-Actuators/). I was quoted $2400 by a local shop to do the conversion so I imagine adding it as an option to a new trailer would be somewhere in between.

ghone · Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 10:40 am Post subject:

Thanks guys. I have a bunch of calls out so should be hearing some things today. I'm thinking my surge coupler is bad, and pulled the brakes on while stored. There is zero slack at the coupler, not even a wiggle. It seems odd. To convert to disc needs a new coupler anyway if I do surge disc or eoh Thanks for the cheer up folks. I'm in good company anyway. George

ssobol · Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 11:32 am Post subject:

I had to replace the coupler/master cylinder on my Magic Tilt trailer last summer. It was about $165.