Johnson (Suzuki) 90: Another midsection corrosion failure

petemos · Posted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 4:56 pm Post subject:

Hi you really need to take the bolt out to see if you have the corrosion problem. For the outside everything looks great. It’s when you take the bolt out is when you see the corrosion and that the treads are starting to go. To get the side cover off all you need is a thin and long Phillips head screw driver.

Also is you have never checked the internal anodes, I would do that also. I flush my motor every time I come back to the dock and In the last few years the anode holes have been caked in salt. I’m now using salt away and I’m not even sure that is doing much good.

Jazzmanic · Posted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 5:29 pm Post subject:

Thanks Petemos. Yes, I tried using the long Phillips screwdriver but the screws started to strip. That's why I thought a socket would be better.

I hear you about removing the bolt. That's my next move. As for my anodes, those were changed out last year and I was told they were pretty bad. I'll be sure to check those at the same time.

Peter

journey on · Posted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 6:15 pm Post subject:

The 6 mm is the bolt size, not the head size. Go to a bolt place, ask for a 6 mm bolt and see if the head matches the one on the motor. If it does, you have your answer. If not, either ask a Suzuki shop or order a new one. Or wait for someone else to answer the question.

On my KTM bike, the bolts have small, non-standard heads to save weight. Not the best ides in the world for saving weight IF you're doing the work on it..

Boris

Jazzmanic · Posted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 7:54 pm Post subject:

Thanks Boris. That's exactly why I asked. Very Happy

Peter

tsturm · Posted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 10:57 pm Post subject:

SeaSpray · Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2013 9:33 pm Post subject:

I have the Johnson 90 and I don't see any problems from the outside. Where online do you get the replacement aluminium bolt?

I am also not familiar with the internal anodes, where are those?

Thanks,
Steve

petemos · Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 11:47 am Post subject:

Steve, This is where you can buy the bolt on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350576159300?item=350576159300&forcev4exp=true&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

There are (4) internal anodes all on the port side of the engine. They are all the same type. Two are located on the left just above the bolt you will be replacing and one of those require you to remove the lower port motor housing, so you might as will do it at the same time. These have two screws you have to remove and you will most likely need (2) new gaskets to go with this anode change. If you can get a thin chisel or screw driver between the anode cap and the motor housing, that is the best way to get pry them off. At lease the first time, as they will most likely be fused on.

The other two are located on the right, also on the port side. They have only one screw and have an O ring gasket. Once you remove the screw, you can take a vice grip and lightly attach it to the Anode cover. They just twist and pull the cover and it should pop out.

Once you get the covers off you will most likely have to dig out the salt and soak it in hot water to get at the screw that holds the anodes in the cover. I had to put the covers in a vice to be able to remove the anode screw holding them in. After that you put the new anode and screw back and coat the top of the screw with silicone to cover the screw head. Then just put everything back in.

One thing I did not do is check the thermostat, which based on what I have seen, may also be caked in salt. You may want to check that also while you are in motor mode. That is what i am going to do, when i am back at my boat.

Good luck.

Jim

SeaSpray · Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 2:43 pm Post subject:

Thanks Jim,

I will be looking at this soon. I will have to look in the repair manual to see if those anodes are shown. I don't recall seeing them.

I finally did a valve adjustment that took two months. One month to get the valve compression tool then after seeing what shims I needed another 3 weeks to get the shims. No local shops had these and no one online could get them any faster without tripling the prices.
Steve

petemos · Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 4:57 pm Post subject:

Hi Steve, for some reason the repair manual does not show the Anodes on the right side that have the O rings. Brown’s Point, which is located by me told me about these other anodes. I never knew there were another two until I spoke to him. I don’t have my boat here or I would take a picture. Best I can say is the other two are high to the right, only have one screw, are somewhat teardrop looking and have a bump in the middle. They are number 5, 6, 7 and 8 on this diagram, but it does not actually show were they are installed. See link below.

http://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc/bp_AP_AssemblyDetail.asp?ID=1248

SeaSpray · Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 5:48 pm Post subject:

Thanks Pete for the information. I think my manual does have a picture of two anodes higher on the engine, but no description at all to explain what the picture is or exactly where.

It has taken me several readings of this problem to realize that Tim has had two holes open next to bolts. The first problem is the bolt on the holder casting that corroded first. This seems to be the one that has an aluminium replacement on ebay.

The second on is on the oil pan just to the right of the flush plug where you can connect a hose. Is this bolt also steel?

If I don't see a problem now and replace the steel bolt on the holder casting, will that prevent the oil pan problem?

Steve

petemos · Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 7:01 pm Post subject:

Hi Steve, based on what I hear the seconds bolt you talk about is not a problem and does not have to be replaced. I was trying to see where I read that, but can’t seem to find it. Maybe I should have taken the seconds one out, just to see?

If you hear different let me know as I will also replace that bolt. I bought two at the time just in case.

SeaSpray · Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 2:11 pm Post subject:

I bought the aluminium replacement bolt but have not been able to remove the original bolt. The bolt has been painted over at the factory and I have concerned about putting too much force on the allen wrench. I don't want to break something trying to avoid a problem. How have others removed this bolt?

petemos · Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 7:07 pm Post subject:

Mine was also painted over and I had to use a breaker bar that attached to the allen wrench to break it loose. Most likely, like mine, the bolt has already started to rust on the thread lines and that is what is causing the problem of getting it out. I know other people that have had to drill it out and then deal with not messing up the treads.

No real good options here. If you don't do it, you are going to need a lower engine bracket and the cost to install. Mabe you take/talk to the suzuki guys have have them remove and or replace it. They may have some other tricks to get it out.

Sorry Jim

T.R. Bauer · Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 10:45 pm Post subject:

Chester · Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 11:39 pm Post subject:

Heat-cold cycles can't hurt.
What is thieves use to break locks? Compressed keyboard or electronics cleaner? Gets very cold.
Isolate the heat-cold to the bolt.
Kroil is highly rated as is Liquid Wrench. PB Blaster is OK. A 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone works better than any of the commercial products.
An impact driver is cheap and effective.
Or as a buddy used to say "Don't force it, get a bigger mechanic."