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Thermal breakers

 
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TOGO



Joined: 02 Sep 2010
Posts: 91
City/Region: Newport
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 19 Angler
Vessel Name: TOGO
Photos: TOGO
PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 9:38 pm    Post subject: Thermal breakers Reply with quote

I tripped two 50 amp thermal breakers simultaneously one goes to the switch panel the other to the windless. This happen tried to drop the anchor and nothing, did not even make a sound. I then noticed no VHF, no GPS, and no sounder. I know that the sounder was working as we were looking for about 20 feet of water.

I reset the breakers after I discovered that it was the little lever not the red button that resets. What is the red button for? I did notice that one of the battery terminals was a little loose and took care of that. Yes I will change the wing nuts to lock nuts.

The windless and the and all electronics are working like nothing happen. Could this of been caused by the loose battery terminal? Oh it had been a few months since I had used the windless. The boat is used at least once a week from a trailer.

I will appreciate your comments as I not sure what caused the failure and that is not a good feeling.

Guy
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Bill K



Joined: 28 Sep 2012
Posts: 314
City/Region: Toledo
State or Province: OH
C-Dory Year: 1989
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: NIC'L PIC'L
Photos: NIC'L PIC'L
PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The red button is for turning off the breaker ( like when the boat is on the trailer )

Bill Kelleher

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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20779
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Normally the loose battery cable would cause intermittent low voltage or even loss of function. A possibility is that the windlass shaft was stuck, or that accidently the up switch may have been accidently pressed before it went on the "down" position. But that would only account for the windlass circuit. The other circuit is a bit of a puzzle. If there is a lower voltage, from the poor connection, it may have caused voltage drop and a higher current draw. It would take a fair amount of current draw. Be certain that there is no short--where a positive wire may have hit the negative bus bar or visa versa.

As for the lock nuts--I avoid the Nylox, because under a high enough current draw they have been known to have melt the nylon insert. Also the Nylox nut should be replaced. I use a standard SS nut and a lock washer.

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Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
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Home port: Pensacola FL
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TOGO



Joined: 02 Sep 2010
Posts: 91
City/Region: Newport
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 19 Angler
Vessel Name: TOGO
Photos: TOGO
PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thinking back I don't think I noticed that the switch panel had lost its power until after I checked the breakers. When I write the next part THERE IS NO EXCUSE FOR NOT KNOWING YOUR BOAT which I did not. I think I probably pushed the little red button on breaker for the switch panel which tripped the breaker as it should. That brings the electrical problem to the windless which probably needs service from lack of use. They start drop the level of Lake Pend Oreille on the 15th which ends our boating season in this part of the world. A good winter project before it gets to cold in the boat barn.

Thank you for your help guys.

Guy
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colbysmith



Joined: 02 Oct 2011
Posts: 4523
City/Region: Madison
State or Province: WI
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Traveler
Photos: C-Traveler and Midnight-Flyer
PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Along these same lines, recently on a few occasions, I have had my electronics blink and the trim tabs zero up. Thought maybe I had put a screw thru the wiring bundle but that wasn't it. I "worked" the thermal breaker a bit, and that seemed to fix the problem. However I had it happen one more time since then...again exercised the breaker. Any one else experience a problem like this or know if these thermal breakers need any kind of routine maintenance? Colby
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