Exterior cabin wood on older C-Dory

[johnr]

Hello,

I have an older C-Dory (1982 Classic). The aft cabin bulkhead (separating the cabin from the cockpit) is made from wood. I believe that it is original as I have seen similar wood bulkheads on other older C-Dorys. I could be wrong about that though. Does anybody know what kind of wood this it is and, what is the best way to take care of it? The exterior is getting a bit sun-beaten, and I'm wondering if there is a standard and accepted method for restoring it. It's not in bad structural shape. If it were painted (which it's not), it would just need re-painting, so that's the kind of work/restoration I'm talking about. My album (which only has two pictures in it at this point) contains one picture that shows the wood on the aft cabin.

Thanks....johnr

[/img]

[thataway]

In my early 90's boat the aft bulkhead was made of Duragard plywood, with a teak pattern laminate on the outside of the aft bulkhead. I used Cetol which is a pigmented teak type of oil and then several clear coats of clear Cetol gloss over the outside. It looked fairly good, and seemed to protect the laminate. This allows you to keep the wood grain and yet not put on a varnish. The other way to go would be to use a clear polyurethane with ultra violet stabilizer in it such as "Helmsman Spar Clear Urethane.

I am sure that there will be other suggestions.

[C-Val]

Hi John
I have the exact same boat as you do (1982 Classic) which is in Blaine
Mine is more of a restoration project than yours. The C-brats here have been helping me along as I go. They are wonderful! (I still have the original 70 hp Johnson) I am planing to sand my bulkhead out and use a one part polyurethane paint such as "Brightside Interlux" I have used Cetol on other wood boats and it really works great but it has to be able to soak into the wood. My bulkhead has a high gloss finish that will prevent that. You will have to sand yours out as welll to use Cetol but it will look great.

BTW - in the last thread of CD22 wanted someone said my boat was
"booted for non-payment and might be a good deal to buy"
Just for the record I love my boat, its all paid for, its not for sale, and its stored with the good people of Blaine Marine Services.

[johnr]

[Jack in Alaska]

I had a 1983 22' CD for 26 years. My son has it now.

The back of the cabin is NOT wood. It is some kind of plastic laminate on plywood kind of like a counter top. Nothing will soak into it.
I painted mine with a one part epoxy ivory white paint called Pettit EASY POXY. It is absolutely the best paint that I have ever used. No brush marks as it dries. It levels itself to look like it has been sprayed. Lightly sand it and wipe it down with acetone before painting. Buy it in a marine chandlery store.
Pictures of my 22' in my album.
It has been on that boat for 18 yrs. and still looks almost new and shiny even after all the abuse I gave it.

[johnr]

[Sea Wolf]

The plastic laminate/marine plywood is called Marine Decraguard.

(Be careful with the spelling, or you don't get matches on searches!)

Some information from the manufacturer:

DECRAGUARD® INDUSTRIAL PANEL

Here is a former discussion thread about it started by Oldgrowth Dave in 2009:

Marine Decraguard available in single sheets.

The 1980-1986 CD-22 Classics had the entire bulkhead and door made of Decraguard.

Starting in 1987, with the newer design hull and cabin, the door only was Decraguard, and the bulkhead became part of the molded fiberglass cabin.

Sometime later, the door became made of opaque gel-coated fiberglass, then, later clear glass or plexiglass.

If you like the wood look and can restore it because it is not faded beyond restoration, by all means do it.

If it's too far gone, or you prefer the solid off-white color, then paint it.

The door on my 1987 Cruiser is OK, if not like-new looking, so I'm keeping it that way for now, but I think I actually prefer the all off-white appearance, as it looks more modern/up to date, and makes the boat look newer.

To paint it, it should be removed, sanded and prepared on both sides, and then painted one side at a time while horizontal with a brush. It could be "hung" vertically in a spray booth and sprayed, but you'd run the risk of getting runs.

The Easy Poxy sounds like a winner!

Have FUN!!!

Joe.

[Sunbeam]

[Jack in Alaska]

I agree with SeaWolf about removing the door and painting it while horizontal one side at a time. I did it that way.
Also.........the door on my 26' ProAngler 2005 is made of starboard and seems to be holding up well.
Easy to clean up.
Trying to maintain the wood grained look on the older CD's is great but it is hard to keep it looking good.

[icewater]

I hAVe an 81 Classic. When I got the boat it had the rear of the the cabin with some water intrusion. I sawed it out, cut a piece of 3/4 birch plywood to fit and epoxied it back in and covered it with fiberglass. Very pleased with the results. Will have to do the transom this winter for the same reason.

Bottom line: don't worry about the material, since you can have it good as new in short order.

[thataway]

Joe,
Thank you for correcting the name of the plywood--I knew it started with a "D"--and looking it up there is a very similar plywood called Duraguard. Decraguard is certainly the correct name. The Cetol did not soak into the laminate, but was a surface coating semi translucent which kept the grain of the simulated wood. It is one way to maintain the teak grain look, without painting. I did not sand the laminate, but rather cleaned it well.

[johnr]

Thanks all. What an amazing font of knowledge. The issue is really cosmetic so, knowing that this is a synthetic laminate, I'll likely not make this "repair" an immediate priority (the immediate priority being crabbing and salmon fishing for the rest of the summer).

[Sea Wolf]

Sunbeam-

I think you're right about the opaque doors being made of starboard rather than fiberglass.

My bad.

Hazy memory setting in at 71.

Joe.