Dashboard loose.

[alg]

Do you have a suggestion for the repair of the dashboard/bulkhead? The rivets holding it to the cabin top broke and the only thing holding it on are the bottom screws (or bolts). Don't know what caused the problem. Has anybody else had this happen? Shalje is a 2003 19' C-Dory.

[flagold]

Haven't had it happen but looked at mine (2003). I would drill the rivet heads and punch the body through with an awl to not change the hole diameter (the rivets may be out already) and re-rivet the joint. If it happens to mine I will add 2 additional rivets, since I don't think 3 is enough. You could add JB in the seam as well if you can get in there with it (tight). I tow my boat fast (and far) and surmise this joint is succeptable to wind beat vibration loosening the joint and wearing the rivets more than a boating problem. At any rate, the factory would be well advised to add 2 rivets per side if they haven't already (and consult the aircraft general mechanic's manual on rivet spacing since we tow at the low end of aircraft speed (PA-18, J3, etc.)

[Sea Wolf]

Guys-

Are the rivets aluminum, Monel, or stainless?

My "87 Cruiser has sheet metal type screws in it. Three on the helm side, three in the companion way, and three on the port side. It is also bonded across the entire 7 ft plus long flange area with 5200 or the equivalent. Hasn't ever cracked or moved any amount at all.

Might be a good idea to bond yours the same, and sink the new stainless or Monel rivets into holes stuffed with Marine Tex, JB Weld, or something else as solid. If the holes are badly enlarged, they should be filled in, drilled out, and even possibly sleeved with some sort of expandable metal sleeve with ribs if you can find such a critter.

You could also go up one size on the rivets, say from 3/16" to 1/4" if you have the source for the big guys and a tool for such large rivets. (Harbor Freight offers a two-handed rivet tool designed for auto body work that shoots up to 1/4" rivets for about $17.)

Joe.

[flagold]

Good suggestions -- if going to a larger rivet, may also want to use a rivet washer (just a very thin washer) to spread the load on the fiberglass. Aluminum rivets on mine -- they just didn't put enough of them. Same sealant appears to me. The bond could even be glassed, since the cabin is not something we want to take off normally.

I don't have the problem (yet) on mine, same year, same construction though.

[Chris Bulovsky]

I found that the rivets that pulled out of "my project" looked to be aluminum. I used stainless short - n- fat screws with washers to resecure it to the top.
I made new holes so they are super snug. I wouldn't reuse the old rivet holes unless you epoxy them with colloid silica as a filler.( that is some very tuff stuff) looked like the factory used a chalk to fill in small voids. Its kinda a pain to scape that stuff off .I found that a Razor paint scraper works well for removal of the old chalk/adhesive.
I thought about just glassing it in place as well. I would still have to screw it in first to hold it in place for the the glass. If you choose to glass it in, be certain that you put down plenty of plastic to catch drips. This tip may save your sanity.

Good Luck
If I can do it anyone can!
Christopher Bulovsky

[TyBoo]

Not suggesting this as gospel, but think it certainly to be worthy of consideration. If the joint was originally riveted and caulked, and the rivets loosened or pulled out, it is obvious there has been some flexing of the structure. If the joint was repaired by glassing to keep it from flexing, could a more serious problem develop elsewhere in the structure? Maybe the original fastening method was chosen to allow some flex. If you can get some 3M 5200 between the pieces and put in new rivets to hold it in place for curing, I think you would have a bulletproof joint that would still allow for flex and expansion.

I don't really have a good picture of the assembly in your CD19. In my older CD25, the dash/bulkhead is glassed along the sides and top, and fastened to the v-berth chamber with a couple bolts and nuts on each side of the berth entry.

Maybe we need an dogon engineer to weigh in on this one.

[Sneaks]

OK, I'll weigh in instead. Isn't the C-Dory construction warranteed for 5 years? Doesn't alg own a 2003 model? I'd be talking to the factory PDQ. Especially before making any drastic moves.

Don

[alg]

Thanks to all who replied. Factory has been contacted and has assured me that my local C-Dory dealer will deal with the situation to my satisfaction. This seems to be a rare problem. Repair suggestions should be helpful to the mechanic doing the job. I'll try to keep you posted on the progress.

[alg]

I am happy to report that SHALJE has been repaired and is ready to go (as soon as I get the necessary gear reloaded).
After conferring with the factory the glass doctor epoxied the joint between the dashboard and cabin roof and applied fiberglass to make it look better than new. It is very solid now.
C-Dory rep in charge of warranty repair ( Mr. Reynolds) sent me to dealer Dave Miller at the Northwest Outlet in Superior WI who lined me up with Quality Marine Fiberglass in Maple WI. It was a no hassle situation. Only tied the boat up for a week.
C-Dory has lived up to their good reputation.

[Sea Wolf]

alg-

Good for you, glad to hear it was repaired right!

And let's give the C-Dory factory, Scott, and the rest of the chain of Proper Restoration and Warranty Repair a collective A+ for doing right for you and your boat. Well done, all! Joe.