Weldmount Fasteners

[Grazer]

I have a quick question for any of you who have used these acrylic bonded fasteners in your boats. I have used them to bond some items in my boat to fasten starboard, chargers, footman loops etc. My question has to do with cutting off the threaded bolts as the "meat hooks" are too long. I am thinking that, like epoxy, any heat added to the bolt through the process of cutting off (grinder, dremel) the bolt may weaken the adhesive properties of the cured bond. Has anyone done this? I am going to write the company as well and query them too.

Thanks,
Grazer

[Sunbeam]

I've used quite a few of the studs and have cut off many (since they only come in limited sizes, they are often a bit too long). However, I have cut them off before installing them, so I can't address your question. The folks at WM are very helpful though, so I think calling them is a great idea.

Sunbeam

PS: I would definitely call WM first, but I guess what I would do if I "had" to cut one off after installing them (and say I had no telephone ), is use a Dremel or Roto Zip with a heavy duty cutting wheel, putting a couple of nuts on between the part you are cutting and the base, perhaps with a Vise Grips attached (to dissipate heat). Then too, the nuts will help "chase" the threads when you remove them after cutting.

I also suspect the glue is not as vulnerable to heat as epoxy, but I don't know that and like you, would do some research. Edited to add: Not sure which adhesive you used, but the TDS I had saved for the AT-1030 says that the cured adhesive has a temperature range of -65ºF - 250ºF

[beermanPDX]

I've also used quite a few weldmount studs and have trimmed a few after the fact without problems. For example, I mounted my NMEA 2000 connectors with some 10-24 3/4" weldmount studs to the helm bulkhead inside the v-berth. Since this was in the v-berth I didn't want any "meat hooks". I mounted the studs, installed the NMEA 2000 connectors, threaded on the nut and then marked the cut location. I trimmed it with a small hack saw and the heat never traveled far enough up the bolt to even warm up the base. I think you'll be fine unless you plan to trim with a plasma cutter.

[rogerbum]

I'd trim prior to attaching as I find it easier to put the part in a vise and do so. I usually use a cutting wheel on a dremel tool and then a grinding wheel to taper the edges. Also, if there's space, I recommend putting a die on the threaded part prior to cutting. That allows you to easily clean up the threads after you're done.

On a related question, how many remove the gel coat prior to attaching and how many just attach directly to the gel coat?

[Captains Cat]

Roger, I'd at least roughen the gel coat up with a little sandpaper or a small grinder, just under the attach point.

Charlie

[Grazer]

Thanks for all your responses. I did contact the folks at Weld Mount and they provided the following:

"You won’t affect the adhesive unless the temperature reaches 300 degrees F. That’s pretty hot for a grinder. I would recommend that you thread nuts tight to the baseplate and up the thread to just below the point you want to cut. Use the grinder to shorten the stud. The nuts will better support the studs and help dissipate the heat. Once the stud is at the correct height back the nuts off. These will act like a tap and clear the threads as they come off. Should be no problem."

In hindsight, I wish I had measured and cut them off prior to installing. I like the idea of using a hack saw to reduce the head produced, however the space required to move the tool is limited, so I'll be forced to use the dermel.

[Sunbeam]

[Grazer]

[Sunbeam]