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hankster



Joined: 23 Apr 2013
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 12:48 am    Post subject: tranducer mounting Reply with quote

first I need to say I have an old boat....90 angler...and shes been good to me.... however the electronics have been needin an upgrade.....so I went out and bought the New Lowrance HDS GEN2 Touch....with the two diffrent transducers. reg/2D/3D. Basicly I went all out!!! just nervous about drilling in the hull!!!!! any tips i should know about. I'm a metal guy not so much fiberglass..... with metal you just weld it back up!!! so with glass how do i remove the old one without it leaking?(into the hull) and tips for installing the new ones please.

thanks

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chromer



Joined: 27 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just went through same. Well not really, I paid a installer to do it. Placement of your transducers is important, esp the LSS-2 unit. It shoots 3 beams - left, right, and down. The consideration is the angled side beams being ubstructrd by something like motor shaft. Thtaway or Sunbeam will likely answer your fiberglass question. So far, I am really enjoying the HDS - 9 setup
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rogerbum



Joined: 21 Nov 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The best thing you can do to mount the transducers is to mount pieces of starboard (or other plastic "wood") to the transom and then mount the transducers to those. The starboard will allow you to adjust the transducers or put a new one on in the future without drilling new (additional) holes in the transom.

As for how to mount the starboard, there's a number of threads on that but in brief, cut the starboard to size and drill mounting holes in it. Do a test mount of the starboard and mark where the mounting holes meet the transom. Slightly over drill the holes into the transom. You only need to go through the outer layer of glass and part way into the core. If your transom is in good shape, the core should be clean and dry. If it's not or if water runs out when you drill that first hole, re-post here.

Assuming the core is good, use a dremel tool to under cut the core - e.g. you want to remove the core between the two layers of fiberglass. You can do this with a small grinding stone or even a bent nail mounted in a dremel or drill. I've usually drilled about a 1/2" hole and then I use a half in diameter grinding bit in a dremel tool. That lets me remove almost 1/4" of core under the glass. Make sure the holes are deep enough to accomodate the screw you plan on using. Clean everything up with a little alcohol or other solven and fill the holes with thickened epoxy. Then put the board up and re-drill holes that are appropriate for the screws you will use. I also like to undercut the starboard on the back side where the screws go through. Then when I attach the board, I can fill that undercut void with 3M4200 or silkaflex and it creates a little o-ring around the screw. This probably isn't necessary with the thickened epoxy behind it, but it doesn't hurt anything.

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rogerbum



Joined: 21 Nov 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a previous thread where Thataway Bob described the process in detail.
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent descriptions above--and congratulations on buying a great instrument! I am jealous!

In this case, I would first remove the old transducer. Take a piece of light cardboard or heavy paper, and mark where these old holes are, and also the bottom of the transom. If possible I would like to use the old holes to help to hold the Starboard in place. After you make the Template, then do the drill out and under cut--of these old holes. Get any wet core out in this area of the transom (if present).

With the two transducers and as Chromer notes the possible obstruction by motor, trim tabs etc, you may even have to put on a very wide piece of Starboard or even two pieces. The advantage of the external mounting board is that you can move the transducers easily to get the perfect picture.

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Thataway
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



This is a photo taken by Fishton and posted on THT.




And some images from the LSS1 & LSS2 Again by Fishton and posted on THT. There is also some discussion about the mounts an scans.
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dread



Joined: 06 Apr 2012
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 5:01 pm    Post subject: SternSaver Reply with quote

I used a SternSaver (available at West Marine, I think -- I ordered mine directly -- and glued it to the transom where the transducer had previously -- and improperly -- been installed. It worked fine, although the pin that holds the Stern
Saver while the glue is curing didn't stay stuck to the boat, so I had to rig a solution. I screwed the transducer mount into the SternSaver. It worked fine - Raymarine transducer on a 25' Cruiser.
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hankster



Joined: 23 Apr 2013
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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 11:50 pm    Post subject: location,location, location Reply with quote

so what made or prompted you to install the lss 2 closest to the center? how close is it to the motor? are you able to get the ful picture?
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hankster, as I noted below the photos these were posted by Fishton on The Hull Truth. I would suggest that you to the THT, and ask Fishton about his installation. I put these up so people who were not familiar with the transducer's size and complexity of installation could view this issue.
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24Salty



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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check out a product called Stern Savers, they are designed to be epoxyed to the stern and the transducers mounted to them rather than having to tap into the transom.
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Sunbeam



Joined: 23 Feb 2012
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 8:19 pm    Post subject: Re: location,location, location Reply with quote

hankster wrote:
so what made or prompted you to install the lss 2 closest to the center? how close is it to the motor? are you able to get the ful picture?


I don't know what transducer you have (or will have), but I'm just in the process of installing an Airmar P-66 to my transom. The Airmar instructions give a good idea as to placement limitations/recommendations. For example, they recommend the stbd. side of the transom because the prop is (typically) turning "down" instead of "up" on that side. The also recommend it be at least 3" outside of the circle of the spinning prop, but also reasonably close to centerline so it does not get air in turns. In my case I also have turbulence from the trim tabs to consider (etc.) They go into some detail about how to adjust the transducer angle depending on your boat speed range and transom angle as well.

I'm mounting mine on a piece of starboard that I cut to match the deadrise at the transom, and also angled on the bottom edge to match the angle of the transom. I don't know how important that is, but it was not hard to do and I figured it couldn't hurt to make the piece of Starboard™ "look" just like an extension of the hull to the transducer (so no extra turbulence from coming off the end of the transom and "up" to a non-matched board). Again, not sure if this helps but I don't see how it could hurt.

I plant to mount the Starboard to the transom with four Weld Mount studs, then screw the transducer into the Starboard. That way I don't have to worry about the adhesive/Starboard issue. I haven't done it yet, so can't report on how it will work (although I have used Weld Mounts elsewhere on the boat).

Sunbeam
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hankster



Joined: 23 Apr 2013
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City/Region: marysville
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 9:33 pm    Post subject: better reception Reply with quote

just wondering if you get any interference with the structure scan being that clost to the motor? or vice versa
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2013 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are some of the fishing forums, including THT where you can get some good answers. My understanding is that you want to be 15" outside of the motor. To the Starboard side, because of the right hand prop, you have less turbulance on the right side. You may have to raise the enngine when trolling and looking at structure. Remember that these are limited depths for the side scan elements.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-electronics-forum/422004-lss-2-mounting-location.html

http://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-electronics-forum/494855-help-transducer-placement-tideline-19-cat.html

http://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-electronics-q-boe-marine/414462-help-mounting-multiple-transducers-lss1-83-200-existing-garmin-transducer.html


These are three links--but if go to THT and do a search for "Lowrance Structure scan transducer location".
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hankster



Joined: 23 Apr 2013
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City/Region: marysville
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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 5:12 pm    Post subject: ??? Reply with quote

I plant to mount the Starboard to the transom with four Weld Mount studs, then screw the transducer into the Starboard. That way I don't have to worry about the adhesive/Starboard issue. I haven't done it yet, so can't report on how it will work (although I have used Weld Mounts elsewhere on the boat).

Sunbeam


what are weld mounts?
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Sunbeam



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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 9:52 am    Post subject: Re: ??? Reply with quote

hankster wrote:

what are weld mounts?


Weld Mounts are various fasteners that use a methacrylate glue for adhesion. There are male and female studs, footman loops, zip-tie holders, and a few other things. I first encountered them in semi-custom new boat building.

Here is a link to their website (I have bought their products through Fisheries Supply and Jamestown Distributors).

http://www.weldmountsystem.com/
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