Lower unit separation problems

[Slow-N-Easy]

Hi all
Help I have twin 50 Suzuki outboards and in the process of changing my water pumps. I changed the first one with out much problem separating the lower unit from the motor. Assembly also no problem. The second motor I have been able to pry the lower unit just 1/2" and can't seam to get it to budge any more. Any Ideas? I have every thing undone as far as bolts and shift linkage. The only thing that I can think would be holding it together, would be a rubber shaft bushing.

[Captains Cat]

Your screen name says it all!

I'd get about 4 plastic wood splitting wedges. Place them between the units and tap them in "slow and easy".

Let us know what finally works!

Charlie

[Slow-N-Easy]

Charlie
So true. I called Sport Craft and they suggested that I hang the motor upside down and hang it from the lower unit and spray a break free lube in and let it work, or heat the shaft.
Well I decided that that was not possible in my shop. So I tightened the bolts again and tried to separate. I found that I had to pry it apart again, but not as tuff, I was back to where I was before. Than I tried to pry with a tire Iron and thick screw driver. Finally it started to budge a little and "Shazam" it came off. Now I had to put it back together and again I had to force it together with the bolts. All of a sudden it slid up effortlessly.
Now I found that I have to take it back apart again cause it isn't pumping water right. Thanks for your assistance.

Bill

[Captains Cat]

Glad you got it Bill.

HANG IT UPSIDE DOWN?.

Charlie

[hardee]

Sounds like that info came from the Bat-mobile mechanic

Scary thought.

Harvey
SleepyC

[Falco]

The only points of contact are the 6 bolts, the clutch linkage, the slide on slide off rubber/metal connection off the water pump and the drive spline. I would be suspicious your drive spline is damaged. Do you grease it before reassembling the lower unit? Are the splines straight and not stripped or rounded off?

If the water pump isnt working correctly, you may have forgotten to turn the drive shaft assembly counter clockwise ( looking down on the pump) as you replaced the pump cover. This bends the vanes of the impellor into the proper configuration for operation. Be careful tightening the pump housing to the lower unit - those studs will easily break off as only 5 ft-lbs of force is needed to tighten the nuts!

Good luck.

[Falco]

Oops! I meant to say "clockwise" not "counter clockwise"!

[Slow-N-Easy]

All back together now water flow is weak. I have taken the lower unit apart numerus times, checked the thermostat. All seems to be working fine even the over heat sensor.

Well today I am going to take the lower unit off and try to plug the water inlet tube with a plastic baggie and the water piss tube and soak some salt-x on the cooling system. There must be some salt plugging the water pressure valve in the motor. The motor ran fine before I started the replacement of the water pump on the two engines.

[Falco]

Is the semi-circular metal key between the inside of the rubber impellor and drive shaft in place?

[Navanax]

X2 Falco's question

I have tried hanging a small (6HP) motor upside down. Supposed to be the trick if the splines have stuck to the fly wheel and therefore drive shaft came out stuck in the upper unit versus lower. It worked. Took about 4 days. But not sure how to do that with a 50 HP. Unless you turned the whole boat upside down....

[Slow-N-Easy]

Well here is a recap to what I found. There was salt scale in the water supply. I think that some or all of it came from the zinc mounted on the right inside of the cooling system. I flushed it all out.

Thanks for all your help and ideas.

Bill