fuse panel blade fuses vs inline fuses

[ferret30]

After removing some old electronics, my boat has a completely unused accessory fuse panel under the main switch panel (in the berth). Are blade fuses and inline (along the wire) fuses of the same rating comparable, or is there a reason to specifically use inline housings/fuses? It would be cleaner and easier to use the panel (it accepts a blade fuse for each positive terminal).

I just want to make sure there isn't a specific difference between the two types (i.e. barrel fuses being for delicate electronics).

Thanks!

[thataway]

I try and convert over to the blade fuses. I have added a second blade panel to "Thisaway"--and all which have inline fuses will be changed to blade type. There is no difference for same amperage. I find the blade type easier to trouble shoot.

[ferret30]

Great! That will get rid of even more wire clutter behind the panel. My VHF had 2 inline fuses on it and some wire connections made with wire nuts. It's a mess but I'm rewiring everything that I'm moving.

[journey on]

Let's see, a 5 amp fuse is a 5 amp fuse, unless someone is lying. It doesn't matter what they look like. Voltage counts, but for a C-Dory we're all talking 120 VAC of 12 VDC, right?

So the reason for the different configurations is packaging. If you've looked at the fuse panel on your car/truck, you may have noticed how many circuits there are, so the blade fuses certainly make for a neater package. And if you doubt that, look at my 63 Chevvy, where the 5 fused circuits make for a lot of real estate.

Those blade fuses must be cheaper to make, since that also drive the auto industry. Stamped fuse metal and injected plastic.

Use the blade type freely. Note that there are a lot of different sizes: ATO, mini,maxi. Get the right size and rating.

I also found an underused fuse block on Journey On. It let me clean up a lot of wiring.

Boris

[ferret30]

I was assuming they were the same, but I wanted to make sure since there had to be a reason for so many poorly located and cumbersome inline fuse holders, right?

My next goal (after decommissioning and installing electronics) is to figure out what all the unconnected wires are for behind the panel. I must have a dozen or more bullet connectors hanging around behind the panel. I'm guessing a bunch of them are coming from the motor, i.e. for optional gauges that I don't have.

[Sea Angel]

Ferret30;

There is also a side advantage to using the blade fuss. You may have noticed that they are also different colors for the current ratings. This makes it much simpler to organized your spares and to be able to grab the correct one in a hurry.

Unlike the standard in-line 'glass/ceramic' cartridge fuse, you don't have to fuss with removing a twist holder just to see if the fuzz is visually blown. I would also venture to say they will have a higher physical failure than there counterpart, the spade.

The spade fuse on the otherhand is just unplugged to view. But, most of the time, you can see if it is good while it is still mounted in its holder.



Art

[thataway]

While you are cleaning up the wiring label each wire--on both sides of the fuse, and near the item it feeds. Saves a lot of time tracing wires later.

[squidslayer]

I replaced ALL of my blade fuses ...inline...fuse box...even Both engines,,,with LED blade fuses that light up when blown...makes it real easy to find the blown one especially if it is one of the mystery line or unmarked fuses..... no trial and error pulling...I found them online...regular and mini blade 30# 5 thru30amp for $9.99

DickE

[hambone]

[Sea Angel]

There is a difference between a 5amp fuse rated at 12V and one at 125V.

The difference is what voltage the fuse will handle without flashing across the opening created when it "blows". That is why you never place a 12V fuse in a 125V circuit. The reverse will be alright in my opinion, but it is a bad practice and should not be done.

Art