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pass through between cockpit and cabin

 
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ferret30



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 6:24 pm    Post subject: pass through between cockpit and cabin Reply with quote

Hey guys, when I recently replaced my transducer and cleaned up wiring, I noticed that there's a large opening between the starboard cockpit shelf and the galley cabinet where the motor controls, power, etc. pass through. This seems like a place you'd want to block up to try to keep the boat warmer.

I'm thinking of looking for an appropriately sized ball (like a nerf but not spongy) to shove in there. Maybe it's better to leave it open when the boat is stored for cabin ventilation?

Anyone else done this?
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colobear



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have thought about that same entry, not only for temp. but also for insects, mice, etc. I think you could take a nerf football and slice it sort of like bread, slit a side, cut out a hole a little smaller than the cables that go through and jam it in there. That is a low tech fix but might work.
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Hunkydory



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the way to & from Alaska when using the CD 22 as a camper we have had to plug the hole from the cock pit to cabin you mentioned, anchor chain & the sump  between the cockpit & cabin to prevent the hoards of Mosquitos from entering.  Forgot to do this resulting in battles the Mosquitos won.  Now it's standard procedure to block them all off whenever the bugs are thick outside with sponges,  paper or cloth.  

Have never bothered with this for heat. Think some airflow is good to help with the moisture condensation & have camped on the down to outside temps of 17 degrees F & was not uncomfortable inside.

Jay

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jkidd



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a Wallas it vents the combustion air overboard, but needs to draw its makeup air from somewhere. So if you plug all the leaks you will draw a negative pressure on the inside of the boat. Then the Wallas might not work right. You could always plug the holes and crack a window and close the screen. Just some thoughts.
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ferret30



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jkidd wrote:
If you have a Wallas it vents the combustion air overboard, but needs to draw its makeup air from somewhere. So if you plug all the leaks you will draw a negative pressure on the inside of the boat. Then the Wallas might not work right. You could always plug the holes and crack a window and close the screen. Just some thoughts.


That's a good point. But we have the Origo 2 burner alcohol stove (which I still haven't fired up), so I'd imagine that's even more in need of an open window or something.
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digger



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 1:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is not true for the wallas 1300 heater. It draws air for the combustion through the double wall vent. The only extra air that is needed is for things like breathing
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ferret30



Joined: 22 Mar 2011
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 1:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

digger wrote:
This is not true for the wallas 1300 heater. It draws air for the combustion through the double wall vent. The only extra air that is needed is for things like breathing
Teeth


I can see it getting combustion air through the vent, but it still seems like it will be exhausting, at least partially, into the cabin.
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416rigby



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 4:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used expanding spray foam. Had to keep those bugs out when we lived down south.
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ferret30



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spray foam would probably work well but I think if I do that I'd spray it into a bag in that cavity so the bag would expand but none of it would stick to the boat. I've used a similar method to make foam inserts for crates when shipping delicate and unusually shaped items.
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rogerbum



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jkidd wrote:
If you have a Wallas it vents the combustion air overboard, but needs to draw its makeup air from somewhere. So if you plug all the leaks you will draw a negative pressure on the inside of the boat. Then the Wallas might not work right. You could always plug the holes and crack a window and close the screen. Just some thoughts.


The boat is not so air tight even with all those holes plugged that this is a problem. The door is generalyl not that well sealed, the windows are not generally air tight, the anchor chain is not air tight and many of the electrical feeds are not air tight (clam shells for antenna wires, nav lights etc). So I think creating negative pressure inside the boat by closing things off is the last of our worries.

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smittypaddler



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 4:51 pm    Post subject: I used duct tape, but the nerf ball is a better idea Reply with quote

When I went up the Lostman's River in Everglades National Park, I anchored several hundred yards from shore, out in the middle of Second Bay. I got eaten alive by mosquitos, and since I had all the screens closed, and a towel draped over the bilge pump hole, I couldn't understand why, until several weeks later when I discovered that large portal under the starboard rail. I closed mine up with duct tape, but I think the nerf ball is an even better idea. BTW, no-see-ums look on the mesh in the window screens as wide avenues in which to enter your boat. The only answer for them is to close the windows and turn on the air conditioner; and that only partially works.
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