Bow Anchor Rollers

marvin4239 · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 10:25 am Post subject:

I have the one Marc pointed out (rigged by Wefing) and it works great never had a problem with it.

Don and Brenda · Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 12:25 pm Post subject:

Bringing this to the top again, Due to pending shoulder surgery that will prevent me from manual pulling the anchor, I am looking at a windlass, so many options. Considering the Lemar Pro Fish for it's free fall function, as I mostly boat solo and dropping the anchor fast seems like a good option. The other 2 would be the Lemar V700 now the question comes on a 22 is it better to have the vertical vs the horizontal, since Mostly boat in the PNW and plan for Alaska in a few years would like to carry 300' chain/rode combo. With the verticle is there room for that much rode? Maint. issues one vs the other type? I will also be changing out the factory roller to a self launch type.

dotnmarty · Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 1:21 pm Post subject:

The 16 footer I just bought came with the same bow anchor roller as shown in Joe's picture (top). I initially thought it was installed incorrectly, because when pressure is released on the anchor rode the pivot slams down on the tip of the bow maring the gelcoat. But it is installed exactly as is Joe's. What am I doing wrong?

ferret30 · Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 1:54 pm Post subject:

Marty, I just installed one of these pivoting anchor rollers (same one, just a used Simpson Lawrence version). When I located the new holes, I made sure that when the pivoting part was down, it would clear the point of the bow/deck by at least 1/8". I couldn't have it too much farther forward than that otherwise the front mounting bolt wouldn't have room for a washer underneath.

If you need to relocate the holes slightly, you may want to undercut and fill the existing ones completely with epoxy, then locate the new holes, drill, undercut, epoxy, redrill. It sounds like it's close enough to the correct location that if you redrilled without doing anything else you would just wind up with elongated holes.

20dauntless · Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 1:56 pm Post subject:

Sea Wolf · Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 2:49 pm Post subject:

Marty-

I think I understand your problem.

ferret30 has described one approach, namely to re-install by re-drilling new holes, moving forward with the mount. This may be difficult, or even impossible to do, if no room is available to move the holes forward.

What I'd try to do is to make a stainless plate to fit down in the lower half of the roller and between the lower and top half, which would extend the lower half's forward edge / lip out slightly, to thus catch the top half earlier in the pivoting travel, stopping it in the downward swing before it contacts the fiberglass bow of the boat.

There are some clearance issues between the two halves in pursuing this approach, but I'd try it first.

This might require lengthening the bolts, but would not require re-positioning the holes.

Thinking further, one might simply take the mount to a welding shop and have a plate welded inside the lower half at the forward section, then simply reinstall it with the original length bolts.

What is more, it may not be necessary to actually extend the lower section, just make it thicker forward, thus limiting the top parts downward swing.

Try it out by putting a few washers in the area we're talking about, taping them down good with duct tape, and operating the windlass to see if the increased thickness approach works. If so, you have a couple of choices in how to make the lower half thicker/higher at that point, as discussed above.

Let us know what you find & figure out!

Good Luck!

Joe. Teeth

dotnmarty · Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 2:57 pm Post subject:

Thanks Joe and Ferret. I'll see if I can get my son Joe to weld a piece in, as you suggest. With the countless holes I'm filling in on the boat, I don't want to drill any more.

thataway · Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 9:00 pm Post subject:

Another trick I used on a boat where I had to remove the bow roller to get the LOA under 45 feet (and keep a live aboard slip) was to bolt a plate of SS to the deck, and then attach the roller to that plate with flat head SS machine screws. Easy to take the roller off=--but in this case, use the original bolt holes for the plate--counter sink the flat head machine screws which are thru bolted to hold the plate on the deck. Then drill and tap the plate (1/4" min--better 3/8" thick) and screw the articulating roller into this fixed plate where ever you want it to be!