Dish, Cutlery and Pot storage under sink cabinet CD 22

[Yellowstone]

Chester - those little bamboo slatted curtains were cut from a big window shade puchased from Home Depoe - readily available. What I first did was cut them vertically. This means that you will have to tie off the ends before you cut so the threads do not unravel. Tedious but do able. Next cut them for width. The blind needs to be rolled up as tight as you can get it. If you use a power chop saw many ends will be split and fray. I used the Japanese draw saw with fine cross cut teeth. It makes a nice cut.

You will have to sacrifice some rows of slats on the bottom in order to have enough thread to do double knots, which is what I did.

Unbleached muslim is used as a backer, with a pocket sewn on the bottom to run a 1/8 inch wooden dowel. This helps keep the cloth hanging straight and true. Also, when the curtain is rolled up, the dowels act as a director. The cloth part is attached to the top of the bamboo by hand sewing it to the bamboo.

Note: the two window on both sides without a divider are covered with one curtain, not two. To keep the curtains rolled in place, I used the little SS J hook (two screws) made by sea dog, with a loop of bungee cord. It just hangs on the hook with the curtains are down and then is pulled down and around the rolled curtain and hooked to the top when they are up. You made have to bend the hook in slightly to create a good friction fit. The curtains stay in in rough water. The system works well. Hope this is helpful.
John

[Yellowstone]

Warren - the teak lazarette covers may appear to be cosmetic, but that is not the purpose. This is my second 22' C-Dory, both with the older and superior cover or lids. Over time the fiberglass lids become scratched. Whether on the trailer, at the dock, or on the water, objects will be parked on them temporarily and often leave scratches and occasional gouges. Often I would place a cloth or cardboard down on them to support a battery I was taking out or installing.

Also, the glare bothers me from the highly polished surface. So I decided to come up with a cover which could be abused without real concern. I settled on Okume (phonetic spelling) 3/16th plywood, stained with my "patented" walnut followed by red oak stain - which looks like teak.

If you attempt the project, remove both lids, and trace them upside down on the plywood. Do not just use one lid as a pattern for both because the cutout portions will probably not match. I did the shortcut process and ended up with an extra piece. (later made into a bird house)

I use several coats of spar varnish after staining both side. It of course dries bright, but I reduce the glare with some fine steel wool rubbedf on the top surface.

Now I put anything on the lids without worrying about scratches. If they occur the touch up is simple, and the fiberglass stays pristine.

Also for my taste, I like the look of real wood.

John