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Tug
Joined: 22 Jun 2007 Posts: 990 City/Region: Sault Ste. Marie
State or Province: ON
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Drifter
Photos: Drifter
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Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 8:23 pm Post subject: Anchor Straps |
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Today i installed my 16 # Claw on my BRM-4...the bow roller has a captive pin that locks the anchor in place...The anchor is secure in the North/South position but the anchor does swing right to left. I am concerned that while running it may cause some damage...is there a way to secure this. I was considering using some kind of anchor strap if there is such a thing....or even installing another captive pin half way up the bow roller but i am not sure if that would work.........also for those who use a hawsp pipe how do you secure your anchor line in your locker when you are away from your boat...i mean what would stop anyone from pulling the anchor rope through the hawsp pipe. Thanks Tug |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 21355 City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
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Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 9:46 pm Post subject: |
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How about someone stealing the anchor? I did sell one boat, and the next week someone stole a 45 CQR right off the bow.
I would not worry about someone stealing the anchor rode. Just pull the anchor tight up against the roller, if tight enough it will stay in the roller. If the roller is properly installed, the anchor should not hit the boat. The BRM 4 is specifically designed for the Bruce 22 lb anchor, and it should be secure.l
If you are really worried, then put the chain through the hause pipe and padlock a piece of SS "L" bar to it. Incidently, normally I do not keep the anchor in place with the chain or rode--I use a separate length of line--or snubber to keep the anchor in place. _________________ Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL |
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Tug
Joined: 22 Jun 2007 Posts: 990 City/Region: Sault Ste. Marie
State or Province: ON
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Drifter
Photos: Drifter
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Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 10:23 pm Post subject: |
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I will try using a snubber line to keep the anchor in place instead of hooking the anchor chain to the bow cleat. If you do not have a windless .. how do you secure the anchor rope to the bow cleat when you have the anchor out. I have tried knotts before but they have a tendency to be difficult to remove. Thanks Tug |
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JamesTXSD
Joined: 01 Mar 2005 Posts: 7481 City/Region: from island boy to desert dweller
State or Province: AZ
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: "Wild Blue" (sold 9/14)
Photos: Wild Blue
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Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 10:36 pm Post subject: |
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Tie a cleat hitch on the cleat...
http://sailing.about.com/od/learntosail/ss/cleathitch.htm
Easy and fast to tie/untie. If one is using a windlass, you should be depending on the windlass to hold the rode... we tie off to the cleat or put a snubber line on the chain, depending on how much we have out.
Hope that helps. |
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timflan
Joined: 16 May 2006 Posts: 544 City/Region: Seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Two Lucky Fish +1
Photos: Two Lucky Fish
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Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 1:39 am Post subject: |
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Not sure if this is helpful, but I'm pretty happy with the "Perfect Bungy" solution, which I just wrote about at Navagear.
And yes, that white plastic thing is a patch covering the hole where my windlass used to be. At Friday Harbor, you can me to pontificate at length on the following topic: "It's virtually impossible to avoid misusing a windlass unless you're willing to make MORE trips to the foredeck and back than you would if you were deploying and retrieving by hand!"  _________________ Timothy R. R. Flanagan |
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Tug
Joined: 22 Jun 2007 Posts: 990 City/Region: Sault Ste. Marie
State or Province: ON
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Drifter
Photos: Drifter
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Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 11:03 am Post subject: |
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Pat and Tim.... That's what l was looking for...the correct way to tie the anchor line to the cleat that was easy to tie and release......and a description .( picture )..of securing the anchor/anchor chain to the cleat . Thanks Tug |
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toyman
Joined: 11 Jan 2009 Posts: 556 City/Region: Lake Livingston
State or Province: TX
C-Dory Year: 2006
Vessel Name: Fan-C-Dory
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Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 2:09 pm Post subject: |
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Course if you're not like Capt. Jim and can't tie a knot (like me), tie a LOT ! This over under around and through always threw me - I did get the rabbit out of the hole - around the tree - and back in the hole down pat. _________________ Dave W.
KE5GOH
Stuck in the 70's,
In East Texas |
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Tug
Joined: 22 Jun 2007 Posts: 990 City/Region: Sault Ste. Marie
State or Province: ON
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Drifter
Photos: Drifter
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Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 3:00 pm Post subject: |
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Funny you should mention that ..not being able to tie a knot....was just on the boat trying that ...cleat hitch on the bow cleat.....what i want to know ..can you tie a cleat hitch if you are using the middle of the rope..not having a end to work with....ha!ha! Tug |
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timflan
Joined: 16 May 2006 Posts: 544 City/Region: Seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Two Lucky Fish +1
Photos: Two Lucky Fish
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Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 3:09 pm Post subject: |
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Absolutely! I do it all the time. My primary forward dockline is fifty feet long, and the middle of this line is secured to the bow cleat. One tail runs down the starboard side of the boat, and the other runs down the port side. When I come to a dock, I step off the boat with a stern line and a bow line in hand. Since the bow line is so long, I generally run it to a dock cleat, about perpendicular to the dock, and cleat it there as a bow line. This leaves a long tail of leftover rope, which I run back to the boat's midship cleat, acting as a spring line.
Anyhoo, properly tied cleat hitches require slack to tie, but they don't require access to the bitter end of the rope. |
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Pacificcoast101
Joined: 29 Sep 2007 Posts: 727 City/Region: Torrance
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2008
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: No Pressure
Photos: No Pressure
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JamesTXSD
Joined: 01 Mar 2005 Posts: 7481 City/Region: from island boy to desert dweller
State or Province: AZ
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: "Wild Blue" (sold 9/14)
Photos: Wild Blue
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Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 7:28 pm Post subject: |
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JamesTXSD wrote: | Tie a cleat hitch on the cleat...
http://sailing.about.com/od/learntosail/ss/cleathitch.htm
Easy and fast to tie/untie. If one is using a windlass, you should be depending on the windlass to hold the rode... we tie off to the cleat or put a snubber line on the chain, depending on how much we have out.
Hope that helps. |
Whew! When I read this back, I see I left NOT out of the above statement... as in: you should NOT be depending on the windlass to hold the rode.
Sorry for any confusion!  |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 21355 City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
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Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 9:38 pm Post subject: |
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Glad to see that not. One important item on cleating a line, is to take a turn of the line around each of the posts before crossing over the horns. As for locking--if you lock it-the illustration shows the proper way--so that the line comes under itself, not the opposite which can jam.
On sailboats we rarely jamed the last turn--so that a line could be quickly and easily released. When anchoring, it is acceptable to jam the last turn. However, if you are going to use the cleat in the center of a line (for example I often use a bow lline and foreward spring line with the same rope. I do not jam the line on the cleat--and after two turns around the horns, then take another turn around the post to go back to the second point where this long line is secured.
The anchor always has to have a second line to secure it--never depend on the windlass when at anchor, or when running. I cannot comment on Tim's experiences--but I did anchor from 1946 until 1980 without a windlass--and I do believe that one of the reasons I have a bad back is that I pulled up a lot of anchors, with my back and legs. The windlass is there to pull the anchor up from the bottom. Drive the boat to the point where it is over the anchor--taking up the slack with the windlass. Drive the boat over the anchor, with the bow line tight (do not use the windless motor to pull the anchor out)--then after the anchor is broken out, retrieve it with the windlass. If you don't have a windlass, you can just secure the anchor rode, when the boat is right over the anchor, and power it out--and/or you can use an anchor ball to pull the anchor up.
I have anchored thousands of nights--and a windlass makes it much easier--and I have yet to ruin a windlass by abusing it. |
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Chester
Joined: 04 Sep 2006 Posts: 1176 City/Region: home
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sold to lovely couple
Photos: Chester
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Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 12:14 am Post subject: |
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Timothy, I've seen too many bungys-tarp straps of every sort, including yours, break. We use a snubber with a hook on one end. |
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