Reparing Holes in fiberglass

Pandy Girl · Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 7:28 pm Post subject: Reparing Holes in fiberglass

I have search but have not found what I am looking for.
Dr. Bob explained how to drill holes in fiberglass then I think drill them bigger then Glass around the sides to seal the Balsa from water getting in there.
Any help would be appriciated
Jim

Rob & Karen · Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 7:33 pm Post subject:

Hi Jim,

See if this is what you are looking for. Dr. Bob wrote it and it is on Captain Matt's site.

Rob

http://www.commercialcaptains.com/Articles/Proper_Sealing.pdf

SEA3PO · Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 11:40 am Post subject:

I am working on a expansion of my Lazarette...cutting out and fitting in a new bottom...several inches lower so I can install a larger propane tank...I really like using West Systems...(west marine sells the stuff but so do lots more dealers).. its a really fine epoxy that is much stronger and easier to use than normal polyester resin.... somewhat more expensive but the outcome has been so good it is well worth the difference in price.

Joel
SEA3PO

thataway · Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 4:15 pm Post subject:

Do you want to fill holes which are no longer used? If they are in solid glass, then you want to make a filler up of polyester risin, and either mill fibers thickened with Cabosil or a medium density filler. I like to drill the hole clean, no matter what size, and then clean with acetone. After filling the hole (and if it is bigger than 1/4", I would stuff in some random mat fibers--if more than 1/2", then I would feather the edges on both sides (if possible) and lay in glass mat and cloth in concentric circles.--then fair.

Finally gel coat (Spectrum color has gel coat patch kits which match and are easy to use).

The obvious "easy" way is to use "Marine Tex"--an epoxy. There are some disadvantages to using Marine Tex, but I do use it occasionally.
It is difficult to gel coat over, and for a truely good repair, a good glass shop will remove all of the Marine Tex. Epoxies are also very sensitive to UV degrigation, so should be painted or coated over. MarineTex will fade or yellow.

For re-laminating and building I love West Systems epoxy--and it gives a better bond than polyester. But the difficulty gel coating it, leaves it a bit behind (a tie coat is best if you want to gel coat--such as Duratec polyester surfacing primer)

If you have a more specific question, I would be happy to answer it.

Pandy Girl · Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 7:07 pm Post subject:

Thanks All,
Rob sent what I was looking for, I am going to mount a Windlass on the 22.
I think all this info. I will get the job done Right
Jim

thataway · Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 7:30 pm Post subject:

On the windlass install, the important thing is to drill the holes first with the appropiate size drill (Template)--and the windlass chain hole. Then route out the core around that hole--I prefer a Dremel tool, since it is cleaner than an allen wrench or a coat hanger chucked in a high speed drill. Fill the under cut area with epoxy thickened to the consistancy of thick peanut butter. (I like Cabosil plus high density filler for this)--then use the Dremel sander to smooth the edges after cure of the epoxy. Same fo the big hole for the chain. Finally I like to use either an aluminum plate or at the very least fender washers under the bolts for the windlass. While you are at it, you might as well properly re bed the cleats, hause pipe and any other screws or bolts on the fordeck.

Pandy Girl · Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 8:23 pm Post subject:

Thanks Bob,
I went Yesterday and ordered a piece of Alum. plate to go under the Fiberglass for the Windlass 12" x 8" x 1/4". I will do the Mounting Bolts and the Large hole like you said, it will take a little more time but it will be worth it.
Thanks for all of the info. that put me on the right track to do it Right the first time.
Jim