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Anchoring without a Windlass
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T.R. Bauer



Joined: 17 Nov 2007
Posts: 1726
City/Region: Wasilla
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Whisperer
PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AstoriaDave wrote:
T.R. Bauer wrote:
Not to be a nitpick, but isn't the inverse of -40 the fractional number 1/40?
Mathgeeks use "additive inverse" to refer to a negative number. Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes


Good point, they sure do. Nonthing like an additive inverse. I was being persnickety....(again)...

But as far as the anchor, I have a milk crate on the deck for the 600 feet of rope and chain (secured by bungi cords) and set the anchor on the deck up by the roller and wrap the chain tightly around the cleat up front. There are some minor scratches and I have had the gel coat rubbed through in a spot due to the cable on the float, but to my amazement it never moves one bit and I come back (never go out) in the additive inverse of smooth flat seas sometimes......lol
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patrick and linda



Joined: 28 Mar 2006
Posts: 953
City/Region: somerset
State or Province: KY
C-Dory Year: 1986
C-Dory Model: 27 Cruiser
Vessel Name: "Fan-A-Sea"
Photos: Misty Seas
PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have the bitter end of the road secured to the bow cleat. i have the anchor line coiled and secure to the bow rail using several white plastic connections normally used to secure docking lines to the rail, works well and looks salty. the anchor chain is secured to the bow cleat using a brace hook type connection, easily opened and closed. this keeps the anchor tight, however i to use a bungee cord to keep the anchor pulled back so the flukes do not hit the underside of the bow's gelcoat. i'm currently looking for some kind of spool, much like for coiling 100' of electrical cord, has a handle to reel in the coil. maybe something like that could be adapted to reel in the anchor road and then secure the whole thing to the rail. perhaps i could have multiple connect and disconnect areas to make the system work. any ideals are greatly appreciative.
thanks
pat
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Jack in Alaska



Joined: 17 Aug 2004
Posts: 1190
City/Region: Anchorage/Ninilchik
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 26 Pro Angler
Vessel Name: HIGH TIDE II
Photos: HIGH TIDE II
PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After reading the previous posts about anchoring/retrieving I am liking my walk around cabin more and more every day. On my previous 22' CD I went around the cabin on the gunnel until my 1st mate thought I was getting to be too much of a clutz and would not let me do it anymore. Then I tried getting my 300 lb. body up through the hatch. No good.
Then I bought a different boat.............problem solved.

I use the spit ring on the rode with the buoy snapped to the end circles. That allows the entire rode and chain to get through the ring and then the anchor is hanging on the buoy after you pull it all the way up. Then it is just a hand over hand thing over the roller to get it all on the bow in the boat. To secure the anchor in the roller I use a black rubber bungee around the cleat and hooked to the eye on the anchor.

Went to Homer today and saw 3 boats trolling for winter kings off of the bluff. Water was extremely snotty between them and the harbor. Temp. was 20F.
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DaveS



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 3204
City/Region: Arlington
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Shift
Photos: Sea Shift
PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 3:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jack in Alaska wrote:
I went around the cabin on the gunnel until my 1st mate thought I was getting to be too much of a clutz and would not let me do it anymore.


In the not too distance future, I expect that I too will be too much of a "clutz" to scamper about the exterior of the cabin. When that time comes, I guess that I'll be forced to bring a wench on board to assist on the foredeck even though I do have a power winch already in use. Wink

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Dave S.
"Sea Shift"
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T.R. Bauer



Joined: 17 Nov 2007
Posts: 1726
City/Region: Wasilla
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Whisperer
PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jack in Alaska wrote:
After reading the previous posts about anchoring/retrieving I am liking my walk around cabin more and more every day. On my previous 22' CD I went around the cabin on the gunnel until my 1st mate thought I was getting to be too much of a clutz and would not let me do it anymore. Then I tried getting my 300 lb. body up through the hatch. No good.
Then I bought a different boat.............problem solved.

I use the spit ring on the rode with the buoy snapped to the end circles. That allows the entire rode and chain to get through the ring and then the anchor is hanging on the buoy after you pull it all the way up. Then it is just a hand over hand thing over the roller to get it all on the bow in the boat. To secure the anchor in the roller I use a black rubber bungee around the cleat and hooked to the eye on the anchor.

Went to Homer today and saw 3 boats trolling for winter kings off of the bluff. Water was extremely snotty between them and the harbor. Temp. was 20F.


Let me guess.....Coho Dave was out again......He is such a die hard. But he catches kings almost on a daily basis. But back to the anchor, I have mine set up just like you do it would appear Jack. Like you have I am certain, I have gotten pretty good at pulling the anchor over the years and if I have someone at the helm is keeping everything straight I can have the anchor up with all the line neatly in the box in about 5 minutes.
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Tug



Joined: 22 Jun 2007
Posts: 983
City/Region: Sault Ste. Marie
State or Province: ON
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Drifter
Photos: Drifter
PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wish i was out salmon fishing...20 F sounds like a warm day to me. Have a Anchor Bow roller question....i want to buy a new bow roller , the pivoting, self- launching design so i can deploy and retrieve the anchor while standing up thru the hatch.How do you determine the size, model number , dimensions...for the right bow roller for your particular boat. Thanks Tug
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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tug wrote:
Have a Anchor Bow roller question....i want to buy a new bow roller , the pivoting, self- launching design so i can deploy and retrieve the anchor while standing up thru the hatch.How do you determine the size, model number , dimensions...for the right bow roller for your particular boat. Thanks Tug


Tug-

Making them fit and also work together with the windlass can be a difficult and somewhat trial-and-error process, and you almost need to take the boat to a marine supplier and fit the bow roller, anchor, and windlass to the boat.

Since this is often impossible or too difficult because of distance or other constraints, I can offer you this advice:

The large pivoting Lewmar bow roller is large enough to handle most any anchor used on a C-Dory and also fits the C-Dorys from 19 feet and on up very well. It's what I use with a Fortress FX-16, and I've seen it work with many other anchors such as the Delta Fastset, the Bruce, and many others. It 's large size and the "drop-nose" action it provides will start most any anchor falling from the stored position.

The other approach would be to just copy a known set up that uses the exact anchor you plan to wind up with. The Fastset and the Bruce will self-launch from some fixed (non-pivoting) anchor rollers, but not all, and the placement of the windlass and the addition of an extra roller between the windlass and the bow roller can be critical ingredients. (The length (and therefore the weight) of the chain between the anchor shank and the windlass can be a factor that's not considered until something doesn't work!)

If you know for sure what anchor will work best where you boat, copying a known combination can be the easiest, but the large pivoting roller will give you greater flexibility in the long run, should you want or need to make changes.

One caveat: the drop-nose or pivoting anchor roller won't be as convenient, however, when just using it in a manual mode, as the drop nose function just gets in the way, since it isn't necessary for manual work, and the rode has to be set very tight to hold it in the up position.

The other, or third alternative, just guessing, and the resulting trial and error process, can be frustrating and expensive, so it's a tough process of choosing, whatever you do.

Others will have an opinion on this, too.


Lewmar KABR-21 bow roller

Joe. Teeth Thumbs Up

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Sea Wolf, C-Brat #31
Lake Shasta, California

"Most of my money I spent on boats and women. The rest I squandered'. " -Annonymous
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