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Captains Cat



Joined: 03 Nov 2003
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City/Region: Cod Creek>Potomac River>Chesapeake Bay
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Captain's Choice II
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 6:32 pm    Post subject: Electrical Counter/Timer Reply with quote

I need a device that will count how many times my sump pump goes off in a given period and many hours/minutes it runs in that period.

Yesterday, the float switch on my sump pump float switch failed. (Naturally it was my birthday, what a present!) Luckily we were home and I was able to run a cord to it and plug it in periodically to keep the crawl space (4.5' high and concrete floor with a 2' sump) dry. Normally the whole space is dry, needed a humidifier in the house last winter to keep the hardwood floors from separating (first winter) but this year, with all the rain/tropical storms and high tides, the water table is somewhat above the floor and when the pump quits, the water starts to rise. We're about 300' from the creek and when the tide really gets high (about halfway to the house) the sump pump runs. It also runs during the summer because the condensate from the AC units goes into the sump.

Fortunately, the furnace and all other things in the spaces are a couple of feet off the floor but I'd like to have some kind of trend device that would tell me when the water table receeds. Have looked on the 'net but not found the right thing yet. I replaced the float switch today and it works fine again, I can hear it running about every 4-5 minutes. The only way I can figure out if the water table is going down is to time the events, which is sub-optimal to my engineer mind.

I have a whole house automatic start generator that starts when the power goes off so that is not an issue. If the float switch fails, it is a problem.

Any ideas/thoughts from the Brat community? I'd like to have a remote unit that installs on the living level of the house so I don't have to go down to read it, although there is access inside from the living level, which I use instead of going to the outside entrance.

Thanks...

Charlie

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BrentB



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
Posts: 4420
City/Region: Greenwood
State or Province: IN
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.boatersworld.com/product/MP80812476.htm?utm_medium=productsearch&utm_source=google

2week cycle history available at the touch of a button. When pressed, the BC100 displays the pump count total since last reset, followed by the total counts from the past 24 hour, 7 and 14 day periods. To keep information current, the unit updates itself and recalculates the totals every 24 hours on a sliding scale. When the 24 hour, 7 day, or 14 day period cycle counts are flashing, it indicates that the power has been interrupted and the count for the period may be invalid. Finally, the count illuminates in the display to let you know when the pump is running.

oops for house sump pump
I have 2 alarms and 2 pumps b/c the basement is finished but another pump for the basement bath and toilet
I have an alarm on the electrical outlet when the power is out or trips the GFI
Bought alarms from Amazon

Sump pumps are cast iron 1/2 hp type stated to be superior to the plastic enclosed and more expensive. Each pump is connected to separate discharge pipe
We have a small fortune in the basement and my wife's father lived with us for several yrs after a stroke and loved it and fireplace too

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BrentB



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

option 2
Install wifi wireless camera and a small light and watch iton the PC and the PC can record activity or there are cameras connected to TV and VCR and records info based on the motion detector
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need a "Totalizer event counter"--there are many types on the internet search. I happen to have an electro/mechanical one, which I came on in my boat box today. It runs on 12 volts and each time the float switch activates the pump, it advances the digital counter (mechanical) one unit. This unit is 12 volts. There are true digital counters which are activated by a 110 volt or 220 volt float switch. I suspect that Grainger has some in their catalogue, and you probably have a Grainger locally.
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Wandering Sagebrush



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 11:11 pm    Post subject: Best Advice Reply with quote

Charlie,

My first house had a sump pump, and an often flooding crawl space. Water in the furnace duct kind of fun. The best advice I can give you is to sell the house. At least, that is what worked for me. I hope you can get things under control, because that is not fun stuff to deal with.

Kind Regards,

Steve

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Will-C



Joined: 21 Aug 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 10:01 am    Post subject: Electrical Counter/Timer Reply with quote

Charlie,
Get a battery back up pump, yes, I know you have a generator but the this option has an alarm when the main pump fails and the second pump kicks on to keep things from going real wrong. It gives you some breathing room to get the other pump repaired or replaced.They can be set up to work a number different of ways not just on power failure. About 800 dollars when I bought one a few years ago at Home Depot. It gives you a second pump along with alarms even to low acid level in the backup battery. Things are going to get worse once those big glaciers start to melt as a result of the global warming per Al Gore. Razz
D.D.
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Oly



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 26
City/Region: Olympia
State or Province: WA
PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If serious damage is a possibility, there are two things I know of I'd recommend, based on serious viewing of "This Old House." First--a pump that operates by city water pressure. Yes, use water to remove water. City water rarely fails, even in power outages as they have back-up power systems much more expensive than anything you'll have. Second, for the electric pump, install a second switch higher than the first, in parallel with the first so either will turn on the electric pump. A wholly redundant system operating off battery power, as suggested, would be another option. The water pressure pump would be the most reliable--no electricity at all involved, but most difficult and costly to install. Professional help may be called for. Adding a second switch is the cheapest and easiest and would be a minimum I'd do. Electric septic tank pumps use a second higher level switch for back-up. They just wire it in and zip tie it to the outlet pipe above the other. You might check with a place that sells supplies for septic pump systems. The one I saw was a plastic float than hung down on its cord but when the liquid rises high enough it turns around and an internal switch closes. Pretty fail safe.

Happy plumbing.
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