Rode: 3 Strand vs 8 Plait Brait

[SGIDave]

Hello,

I have a Lewmar V700 windlass set up with a gypsy sized for 1/4" chain and 1/2" line. I currently use a 3 strand nylon rode with 20 feet chain. This is my first boat with a windlass; all I know about them is the "up" switch is supposed to bring the anchor up.

The chain will feed through the windlass fairly well. But the line...well, that's my problem. It frequently 'hangs' up and doesn't feed around the gypsy properly. It doesn't jump off. When someone goes below and 'helps' by pulling the rode gently into the anchor locker, it works fine. I've pulled all the line out and tried untwisting without improvement.

First question: would a "Brait" type line fall into the anchor locker more easily and improve the performance of my windlass? Or, is there something else I should try?

If I buy a new rode, which 1/4" chain is right? HT vs G4 vs ?

Is ACCO chain worth the extra money?

Is all 1/2" brait the same? Is Yale Cordage worth a premium price over other brands?

If anyone has switched from 3 strand to brait, have you noticed a difference in windlass performance?

Thanks,

/david

[Hayesie Daze]

I know exactly what you are talking about, had the same problem using the Lewmar Premium 8 plait rode. It is not a manufacturing defect, rather the distance between the windlass and the line in your anchor locker is less than the recommended 12" (the line doesn't have enough weight to keep adequate tension). I was going to replace the 8-plait with 3 strand as the local dealer put this in all of their C-Dory's prior to mine. Long and short, I was in the process of replacing and got distracted (kind of like this post) and left it outside for a few days and it worked fine. I think that I did not let the line adequately soak prior to installing, I have not had a problem since. Try soaking the line a bit longer than the recommended 2 hours, more like 24 hours.

As far as the chain goes, check the windlass instructions or Lewmar website, the HT 1/4" and G4 1/4" chains are completely different in lengths and may not feed properly. Hope this helps.

[Sea Wolf]

[thataway]

Although there are several High Test chains (system 7 for example, as well as 4)--G4 1/4" High Test, is the chain called for by the windlass manufactuer.

The 8 plait may work slightly better, but as Joe says, the fall, and weight are critical. You can also go down to 7/16" 3 strand. If your 1/2" 3 strand is very stiff, it may be part of the problem. Consider soaking it in fabric softener, and see if that will make it a bit more supple.

[marvin4239]

I had a similiar problem when my rode was new. Following the boards advice (probably Bob's) I soaked my rode in a 5 gallon bucket of diluted fabric softner and it made a pretty significant difference. I now try to do it about every six months.

[Sea Wolf]

Anchor rope can either be too stiff, or too soft.

One refuses to get a grip with the gypsy or to bend and go down the entry into the locker (or to pack tightly once there), the other simply jams in the gypsy's teeth or somewhere else.

Good quality rope is the best starting place from which to begin, then adjust your rope if you can with fabric softener or salt water soaking and use.

Another approach is to use an all chain rode, or at least a major portion of it, as the chain behaves wonderfully w/o some of the problems of rope. With chain in the sprocket (gypsy), there's no slippage, it always falls and stores tightly in the locker, and it hangs down vertically overboard in light winds, minimizing the boat wandering around.

However, it's very heavy, very expensive, and, while the canter of the moderately tensioned chain has some nice deadening/shock absorbing qualities, a nearly fully tensioned chain rode stops very abruptly when it goes bar-tight, putting quite a shock load on the boat and hardware. Having some rope in the system following the chain adds some elastic cushioning back into the system.

All chain won't work for many, but having 50-100 feet of chain followed by 150 or more feet of three strand nylon has it's advantages and can multiply your anchor's holding power considerably by making sure the pull on the anchor shank is virtually horizontal.

More discussion of the all-chain rode HERE.
Joe.

[thataway]

Just a comment on letting a boat ride to "all chain" or even chain from the windlass to the anchor, and not using any rope to back it. You need to have some shock absorption. I use lighter nylon rode, than the primary--for example on the C Dory I would use 3/8", with either a chain hook or a rolling hitch around the chain, to a cleat. Generally 20 to 30 feet is enough to avoid shock loading the chain--and it takes any load off the windlass.

[SGIDave]

Thank you all for your thoughtful replies and comments.

I will try soaking my current line in fabric softener. I also like the idea of extending my chain...the boat tends to run better with someone up in the vberth anyway, so more weight (chain) up front might be a good thing.

/david

[thataway]

We usually have enough chain, that when the load in on the windlass, that we are pulling on the chain. Down here in Fl, it is rare to anchor in more than 10 feet or water, so 30 feet of chain is plenty. In the PNW, i would consider more chain--50 to 100 feet.

[Wefings]

Dave when you figure out the best combo , swing by and we will have Allen do one of his patented, aircraft quality, safety wiring jobs !BTW its blowing steady 20 with 32 MPH gusts and light rain . SGI is looking good right now !
Marc

[SGIDave]