removing rub rail

[bcarli]

My c-dory 25 has developed a leak since it has started raining up here in the great Pacific Northwest and after much time spent with a garden hose I am pretty certain that it is leaking through the rub rail, behind the bathroom. I have read about other c-dory 25's having this same problem. The water enters the boat from the inside step, next to the bathroom where the bilge pump is located. I wonder if any c-brats have any thoughts on removing the rubber on the rub rail and replacing it after I have caulked ( probably use 5200) were the factory didn't fiberglass. I love boats and I love boating...but I sure hate working on them.
Thanks

[TyBoo]

The rubber comes out and goes back in easy. I had me one of those leaks too. It is amazing how much water can get funneled down the channel and in through that little hole. On my older hull (1996), the aluminum that holds the rubber has a cavity between it and the seam in the hull. I took the rubber strip loose and drilled two holes thru the aluminum about a foot on either side of the leak. Then I put enough silicone in the holes to form dams. After it set up, I drilled two more holes a few inches up from the first two and one more centered between them. Then I started pumping silicone into the center hole until it came out the other two two holes. Wiped off the excess, and put the rubber back in to cover the holes. No more leak.

I would not use the 5200 to seal it the way I did. If you can get to the glass to plug the hole with the sealant, then 5200 will be ok. But it might be a chore to remove and reinstall the aluminum, and if you stick the adhesive sealant in there without removing the aluminum, you might be sorry someday.

[El and Bill]

We had a rub rail problem on our CD-22. A different problem, but folks reading this post might find our solution helpful. The rails had become loose, due to the rivet heads breaking.

We took Halcyon to Tern Boat Salvage - in the original CD factory in Kent. Met the chap who built our boat - he knew exactly how to fix the rub rail, did it, and with a smile and reasonable cost.

We, who also love boats but not fixing complex problems (like riveting a rub rail) were very happy with their work, and sure enjoyed watching Buck lovingly going in and around our little gal saying "yep - I remember doing this ..." And best of all, "she's a beaut - you have taken good care of her."

[Edward Thieme]

I am at the end of my year long trip at Kentucky Dam Marina now.

I have had a little water run out from under the step into the cabin and at first thought it was from the shower sump. It has been warm so I have been skinny dipping and haven't used the shower in months but after washing the boat had some water under the step.

Water has been leaking through the hatches in the cockpit floor, whats new, and I was thinking it was getting into the cabin from under the cockpit. After reading about the rubrail leaks I guess I will look there after I go home and empty all the stuff out of the boat.

I never would have thought about a leak from the rubrail until reading about it.
Thanks for the info. Ed on "Rambler"

[Pat Anderson]

The "chap who built [y]our boat" in 2000 - Buck Williams, now working at Tern Marine Salvage - was also the chap who built Daydream the CD22 about three years later in 2003. Buck knows these boats better than just about anybody, and when Daydream the CD25 needs some repairs, Buck will do it - that is, unless Andrew at Ranger Tugs is available to repair C-Dorys! Andrew was our go-to guy at C-Dory in 2005. He made our build a sheer pleasure. I hear they are pretty busy at Ranger Tug kicking out the Ranger 25s, so it may be a long shot to get Andrew. And in all fairness, Andrew's job is to keep Ranger 25 owners happy, which he does in spades! Either one would be awesome though. Buck and Andrew are just two of our favorite people - well, along with Jeff Messmer, that makes three favorite people! And Marc Grove makes four!

[JamesTXSD]

Our 2007 (built in July 06) had the rubrail leak. Ours was perhaps a bit different; during the build, it was obvious they had removed the rubrail, then re-installed it... and didn't fill the old holes. Needless to say, whenever it rained or we washed the boat, we got water in there. The repair is not technically difficult... I pulled off the rubber insert in the rubrail and put 5200 in all the holes. For good measure, I put 4200 along the metal of the rubrail. A thorough soaking with a hose proved that this was a good fix. Installing the rubber insert was a giant pain in the ass... and I cussed the factory every inch of that job. I found it was easiest to put the rubber in the sun to get it soft and flexible, then "work" it in place with a large flat blade screwdriver. I had blisters on my hands when finished, but the boat does not leak 3 years later.

This is one of those "shouldna happened" items. To their credit, this was during the Reynolds era, and they did tell me to take it to a competent boatyard for the repair and they would pay for it (we were over 1000 miles from the nearest dealer). I spent two days on the repair, but while waiting for the 5200 to set up, I got the boat waxed since it was out of the water. I sent the factory a bill for two tubes of 5200... they did pay for that.

Best wishes,
Jim B.