replacing battery wing nuts with nylok nuts

BrentB · Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 6:38 pm Post subject:

Just to clarify, the nylock nuts are for 12V batteries in my boats to replace the wingnuts. That is the only ones I found but now I starting to look around Very Happy

thanks you made my day

tuggin aweigh · Joined: 11 May 2009 Posts: 1

RE:changing nuts on battery to nyloks.

Check out the Tugnuts Albums ---"Starry Night" --modifications. It contains a picture of an overheated nylock that was used on a battery terminal.

Sorry, I can't hot link it or copy the picture.

Tuggin Aweigh

BrentB · Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 6:01 am Post subject:

thanks
The C Brats are always informative.

Here is the link
http://www.tugnuts.com/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=18635

Sea Wolf · Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 6:20 am Post subject:

BrentB · Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 8:59 am Post subject:

The key point is a loose connection.
Right?
A wing nut can melt, too

Whichever fastener you use, it needs a lock washer, dielectric grease and tighten with a wrench or socket

Captains Cat · Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 9:51 am Post subject:

From the picture, I don't think the metal part melted, just the insert. I don't believe it would get hot enough to melt metal... sure got dark though!

Ever dropped a wrench across a 12v battery? Boy does it get hot in a hurry... Cry

Charlie

BrentB · Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 10:28 am Post subject:

yes I have
on a side note or tangent
Battery technology keeps improving and the increased capacity along with a smaller footprint.
I can no longer charge my two 9.6v battery packs for a DeWalt cordless drill after years of use. It was the best money I spent after the first Makita cordless drill bought n 90s

Sea Wolf · Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:59 am Post subject:

BrentB · Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 3:20 pm Post subject:

Joe

I bought 2 from batterydepot.com for $54 shipped.
The drill is still useful and a workhorse plus I have 2 flashlights that uses the same packs.

Almas Only · Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 9:58 pm Post subject:

Nice video regarding split ring lock washers under vibration:

http://www.boltscience.com/pages/junkertestvideo.htm

Sea Wolf · Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:12 am Post subject:

The above link also has good videos and a discussion about the two-nut system and other fasteners and fastening systems.

I thought about the two-nut system for the battery terminals, but didn't want to stir the pot too much and turn this thread into another single vs. twins epic discussion.

After seeing the videos and graphs, I think I'll settle for two nuts tightened against each other, fastened further with Blue Locktite, and drilled and wired down aircraft motor style. (Old School again!)

Gimmie that nut-busting Junker Machine, and let's run some tests!

Joe. Teeth

Noreaster · Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:01 am Post subject:

Another nay for nyloks, they must also be replaced after each use, otherwise they quickly lose whatever holding advantage they might have. Also products like corrosion-x and ACF-50 are great on electrical connections to prevent corrosion.

BrentB · Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:19 am Post subject:

Is there a tutorial on using wire?

BrentB · Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:21 am Post subject:

Almas Only · Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:40 am Post subject:

O.K., here's what I do with battery terminals:

First, make sure the batteries are firmly secured, and the terminals and lugs are clean.

Second, stack the lugs onto the terminals in such a manner that, when tightened, there will be no gaps.

Third, tighten with nylok nuts to about 10 ft-lbs of torque. I've never had or heard of such an application coming loose, but I suppose it has, somewhere. I don't worry about heat generated at the terminal because the nylok has to come loose first, or there has to be substantial corrosion on one or more of the lugs or the battery terminal itself. I have control over those conditions by routine inspections. I don't use split ring lock washers because if you use a flat washer, lock washer and standard nut, you have the functional equivalent of a nut with an oversized, smooth bottom. The lock washer doesn't do anything, other than supply a very limited force along the axis of the terminal post. But, if you want to use split rings, fine and dandy.

Fourth: apply multiple coats of West Marine Electrical Connection Sealant (costs about $8 per can) to the entire connection (terminal, lugs, nuts, etc.) until you can't see any metal showing through. This way, you don't have exposed connections, which is a big no-no, and the whole mess is so locked in place that it's not going anywhere.

If anyone knows of this setup failing on a C-Dory class boat, let me know.