honda electrical problem

lloyds · Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 2:02 pm Post subject:

I will be sure and check these items. Thank you. I am confident of the battery connections but will recheck as well. I have a 12 volt outlet wired direct to the battery and have cross checked the voltage with the voltage at the fuse panel and they match so I am pretty sure they are okay. I also had a thought last night that when I pulled the steering tube part way out of the engine bracket I might have pulled something loose where the loom enters the engine. They are all bundled together. Have to check there as well. Is there any way of testing the meters if I pull them loose and out of the dash?

seabeagle · Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 5:19 pm Post subject:

I went over every terminal on my boat. The screws were loose, the crimping on the eyelets were loose, the battery was loose. Infact, there wasn't one terminal on the engine or cabin that I didn't have solder and heatshrink or screw tight. The boat was new by the way. I had a long talk with several people about this already. I sold a 22 year old boat to get away from those problems. A good inspection of everything will save you from being stranded or needing a tow. Don't trust anyone. Angry

And the new trailer that the boat was sold with dog-tracked a foot to one side because the axle was bolted down incorrectly. Just another day in Michigan. Crying or Very sad

I still love my boat though. Very Happy

Capital Sea · Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 6:01 pm Post subject:

Upon delivery of my new Cdory, the tac was not working. After looking for all the things that were not the cause, it was found that the hole that the wires pass through into the cabin and under the counter was left raw and the wiring harness wires for the tac became stripped and shorted.
If you have checked the tac and both ends, then this is what I would look at. The problem was never seen. The routed harness was bypassed with a new harness run in the open and when everything ran correctly the harness was replaced. The hole was also fitted with a protective edging to prevent chafing over time.

Fairbro · Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 10:19 pm Post subject:

I am going to re-state a request that is probably borderline annoying but here goes again. These threads are very helpful in describing what may be the cause of a particular problem, but I notice time and time again that they peter out eventually with no real explanation of what suggestion actually solved the problem. Please, once the tach and trim meter start working again rejoice and be merry, BUT report back as to what the solution actually was! Thanks for your consideration.

lloyds · Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:37 am Post subject:

I will definitely report back what the problem was. I see the same thing sometimes and it leaves me hanging. I haven't been out there this week to crawl through it all as it is cold outside. This weekend it is on my to do list for sure.

lloyds · Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 4:31 pm Post subject:

Just put on my glasses long enough to read the wiring diagram. Lo and behold there is another 10 amp fuse serving just the tach and tilt/trim guage. Now all I have to do is find it. I am betting that is where the problem is. I'll follow those little wire thingys from the tilt lever and it should take me right to it.

Almas Only · Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 9:16 am Post subject:

Lloyds:

You state that the trim/tilt works, but that and the tach gauges do not, even when the Trim Angle Sensor is moved by hand. Do the two instruments backlight when you turn the ignition to the "on" or "start" positions? Do any other instruments backlight, and function properly? This info might help run this down.

lloyds · Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 7:15 pm Post subject:

Okay, spent all morning tracing wires. First thing, the wiring diagram in the book is for a Japanese wiring loom. Mine is set up with a Honda American loom. After taking all the wiring down from the dash, stripping off a 100 feet of tape and wire ties, no fuse. Last resort, called Les. After a couple calls he remembered the american looms have the fuse at the control end about a foot out of the remote. Bad news is it is out of reach behind the hull liner. So took all the bullet connectors loose, tied a string to the forward end of the loom and pulled it all out on the berth. It had a 7.5 amp fuse. Swapped that out and all is well. Shouldn't take more than a week to put the wiring back in order.

Wandering Sagebrush · Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 7:29 pm Post subject:

T.R. Bauer · Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 8:06 pm Post subject:

That is good news. Remember, red means + and black means -
I have put stuff on backwards too and am saying that to remind myself of that. It is too easy to do.

Dora~Jean · Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:57 pm Post subject:

Begs the question -- what caused the fuse to blow, or was it defective and failed internally?

Wefings · Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:21 am Post subject:

FYI the dip switches on the back of tachs are to set the tach for the number of poles on the alternator , not engine cylinders . Fuses get hot and cold and vibrate and can fail without and electrical reason occasionally,especially the older style glass ones . Thats why its always good to carry spares. Nice work troubleshooting !
Marc

Grumpy · Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 10:08 am Post subject:

Did you move the stoopid thing to a more easily accesible location while you were in there?

Merv

Wandering Sagebrush · Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 10:16 am Post subject:

Wefings · Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 10:22 am Post subject:

Google !
Most tachs come with a chart or list of common motors . The 50 Honda is kind of unique as I remember.
Marc