90 Honda timing belt replace.???

[Jack in Alaska]

Somewhere on this site I read that the timing belt should be replaced every 1000 hrs.
Today I called Cliff the local OB repair guru. He said that as my motor is going on 12 yrs old and 1200 hrs. he recommended a replacement. He also said that as my motor has never had a wrench on it that maybe valve adjustment is called for. OK
I have a "date" with Cliff in mid April to have all that done. He will have a new belt and valve cover gaskets in stock.
He said that removing the timing belt cover 4 screws was the hardest part. One of mine is seized up.
That is my C-Dory effort today and for the rest of the winter as I am heading to Az. until April.

I also received my new ORVALL'S anchor/pot puller. I am anxious to give it a try in the spring.

[Sea Wolf]

Jack-

Is there any type of freeing compound you could put on the seized up screw that would help loosen it up between now and April? What does Cliff recommend?

Joe.

[Jack in Alaska]

Joe,

He did not tell me directly but he indicated that they can be cut off.

I have tried at least 6 times to put different "magic potions" on the screws to no avail. I think I will just let him do his thing in April an get them out.
He is a real talented and honest OB mechanic. He worked for many years at a Yamaha shop in Homer but started his own shop several years ago and took most of the business away from where he worked. It is hard to get in as he has all of the charter business and there are many charter boats around here.

Thanks for the reply.

Jack

[T.R. Bauer]

Are you really talking about the screws on the cover? Or are you talking about bolt?

[Jack in Alaska]

I am referring to the 4 black screws holding the cover over the belt.
One of mine is corroded, the other 3 are fine.

Jack

[journey on]

Is that stainless in aluminum? If so, it's a deadly combination. Before you round off the head, try a LITTLE heat. Spit hot, not melting. If that doesn't work, have your mechanic take it out. I try to keep all the screws working that came with the engine. However, that said, I assume it's only a belt cover, not structural.

Boris

[Jack in Alaska]

Boris,

The screws have plastic handles and the cover is plastic so heat is a no-no.
I am sure my excellent mechanic will figuire out how to get it off............for $$$$$$$$$$.

Thanks for the reply though.

Jack

[hardee]

Jack, you might try a product called CorrosionX www.Securitysolutionsnw.com or 877-577-5803 It has helped me several times in "impossible": situations. (Like when the mechanics WD-40 and a couple other nut buster solutions didn't seem to work. Put it onto some brake system bolts, and next morning they backed right out. that after half a day of messing with all the others.

Hope it helps,

Harvey
SleepyC

[Sea Wolf]

I'm not making this suggestion to Jack, because he is going to let the mechanic do his thing, and the mechanic is very knowledgeable about this particular problem.

But when you face this kind of situation, besides using corrosion dissolvers, heat, pounding, prayers, and the inevitable bigger screwdriver>hammer>blow torch>plasma cutter, etc., there's another tool that can also help.

It looks like a screwdriver on one end and a punch on the other. When inserted into the screw head and hit firmly with a hammer, the threaded devide inside the punch body spins the screw in the outward direction.

It's called an impact driver.

The trick is that the force not only spins the screwdriver, but the force also pushes down firmly on the screw head, helping prevent distorting the screw head and rendering the screw hopelessly trapped.

It can't be used everywhere, such as on soft surfaces, but works very well on hard metal objects.


Impact Driver and various fittings.

Joe.