EdenPURE GEN3 Quartz Infrared Portable Heaters

[thataway]

We use the cheap ceramic heaters when at the dock--these work well in both the 30 foot rV, the 19 Foot Roadtrek and either C Dories. Most of of the time we run them on "low" which may be from 650 to 1000 watts. In the last 8 ears we have one fail out of the 6 we have owned. For the eating of the c Dory Tom Cat in the sling, I like the radient oil filledd heaters, which have a timer, 3 heat settings and no fans.

I don't think we have paid over $39 for any of these heaters--and many for $19. The boat heater does not have to be "marine" or galvanized etc--
I prefer the fan type heaters, with a thermostat when we are in the boat, since they seem to give more even distribution of heat. Also consider both window coverings, foam, or bubble materials between the cover and window, as well as foam lining for the hull sides. All of these make the boat much warmer, with less condensation.

[Sea Wolf]

Just and added thought to this thread:

We use these heaters several places in our home, motorhome, and boats, and additionally have 12 DC and 120 volt AC fans in many of the same places to augment air conditionaing and heating.

I routinely take them apart, clean out any dust from the motors, filters, fan blades, etc., and oil the bearings. Additionally, I check them out for any electrical issues, and, on the 12 volt DC motors, check the brushes and armatures.

These small appliances will last much longer if not clogged with dust and lubricated and serviced properly.

The number of hours used per year varies greatly from appliance to appliance because of their use pattern, but if you can see much dust on the blades, motor cooling intakes, etc., it's time to take 'em apart and service them.

The same can be said for other appliances around your home, RVs, and boats. Some of the larger ones, however, such as a clothes dryer, ceiling fan, or large air conditioning / heating unit, may require some more difficult maneuvering to get into and service.

Good fun, just like servicing your boat and motor, and it helps keep you out of other trouble from too much time on your hands!

P.S.: Did your turkey pass the post-mortem exam?

Joe.

[journey on]

Today, Friday, there is a full page ad for endenPURE heaters in the San Diego Union, extolling the virtues of their heaters. One, if you order now is $300 and the other is $400. The ad says they re recommended by Paul Harvey, which says more about Paul Harvey then the heaters.

Nowhere are there any specs on power in or power out. There is an inference that they use electricity but no statement. The claim is made that dust comes from the combustion process in furnaces. (Our furnace vents the combustion gases directly to the outside.) They claim that air heated by their method (infrared) does not rise, as does other warm air. And other unusual physical phenomena not found in a physics book.

What edenpure has created is an ad campaign to sell a dressed up pig for an exorbitant price. After all is said and done, it’s still a pig, and worth only a pigs price.

Boris

[Sea Wolf]

[Byrdman]

Hum... after these pages, I will now go downstairs and heat me up some leftovers..... and enjoy some good games in my warm home.

Over Blessed once again..

Happy Thanksgiving to all my C-Brats... and this was a much better read than the local papers.

Have a safe, healthy Thanksgiving and Christmas Season!!

Life is Good!

Byrdman

[Sea Wolf]

Boris (Journey On) and I had a brief exchange of PM's yesterday regarding ours and other's comments about the various types of electrical heaters, and how some folks may be reacting to his and my comments.

We want to assure everyone that we're just voicing our personal opinion about of own preferences, just like Thataway (Bob), , Doryman (Warren),Dene (Greg), Cavu (Ken), Lloyds, Not For Hire (Mark), eNormous (Norm), and others.

We just see the situation alike (as do some others), and are having fun with the science, engineering, and advertising isues presented by the one product.

In no way is this criticism intended for or directed to any of the other C-Brats participating in the discussion or simply following it along.

We're just a couple of science/engineering type "gear heads" having fun with what we see as not believable due to our training.

No harm meant, no foul, no hard feelings, hopefully.

Just trying to lighten things up on a technical topic.

Hope it's OK with everyone!

Joe.

[Byrdman]

I have enjoyed this thread,.....and the left overs were great too!!

I got a good warm happy glow feeling as I sat and watched the college games yesterday on TV looking at my little cheap heater in the floor warming my feet a bit. Ya see, I had bought one of the cheap heaters years ago... instead of Paul Harvey's choice.

I was warm, full, and had the backing of our Eng Dept that I had purchased the correct heater. Life is good.

Thanks to all my engineering gear head geaks and boat freaks. You make my life much more fun.

Byrdman

[eNORMous]

I ended up grabbing a couple of the Optimus H-5210 Infrared Quartz Radiant Heaters from Northern Tool ($29 ea. also) - one for the workshop and one for Antibody.

I also just purchased a Xantrex PRO Inverter XM 1800. The $$ I saved on the heaters will now go to upgrading the Guest 5/5/10 Charger with a Xantrex XC5012 - Multi-Stage Charger - 50 Amps/12vDC Output in the spring.

Thanks everyone for the feedback.

[Dene]

[eNORMous]

I have two Type 27 Series batteries. I just reviewed the Guest 5/5/10 Charger. I don't think I even need to upgrade my Battery Charger. This Guest 5/5/10 is a very decent Battery Charger. I think I'm just going to put the Xantrex PRO Inverter XM 1800 on the current electrical grid and plot/chart my electrical usage baseline data to see what it buys me with my current setup. I think each Type 27 is connected independently (in parallel) to each of the 5 AMP lugs off the Guest 5/5/10 (essentially occupying the 5/5 slots). With that said, I "think" I have some options regarding the remaining 10 AMP lug slots (not sure what all they are right now) but I have a independent 10 AMP circuit available on the charger.

I have to see what my next move is going to be.

[thataway]

The 1800 watt inverter will be a huge draw on the group 27 battery. Generally group 27 batteries are about 90 amp hour. This gives 45 usuable amps. 1000 watts will pull 120 amps (approx) at 12 volts--and the battery will only be good for 20 minutes...give or take. lets say that you run it at 400 watts--, that will be 33 amps, and you may get about an hour and 20 minutes out of that from the one battery.

OK--the next question you need to ask, how is the alternator going to hold up to full output? The temp will be cold--and the voltage regulator is water cooled, so probably not a problem, but you have other operating loads--such as electronics, the engine's intrinsic draw, lights, etc--and so figure realistically 35 amps may be available at rated speed.

So you will still be drawing down the battery or just even at 400 watts. Not sure how well the boat will be heated with 400 watts, when moving (probably better at rest, with windows covered and insulated).

It will be interesting to see how this goes. I would suggest some power management--maybe cummulative amp meter, like the link units or at the very least a good digital volt meter to see how the voltage of the battery is holding up. (a good ampmeter--with shunt) would be an even better plan.

We also have the Xantrex 1800 watt inverter--and it is a ncie unit. We use it for microwave oven use--5 to 10 minutes at a time max, plus the occasional curling iron or hair dryer--again for only a few minutes. We also have two group 31 batteries dedicated to this inverter (can be used for refrigation also). This gives about 240 amp hours capacity, so there is considerably more power available.

[eNORMous]

Yep, should be ~96Ah/Group 27. An Interstate SRM-27 is rated at 160 minutes Reserve Capacity which means the battery can be discharged for 160 minutes (2 hours and 40 minutes at a 25-amp level @ 80° F) before dropping below 10.5 volts. To approximate Marine/RV battery Ah ratings, we multiply the Reserve Capacity rating by 60% (yielding 96Ah).

I have a solid digital volt/amp meter (without shunt), and you bring up good points regarding the equipment with which you monitor/measure. I want to get an excellent shunted volt/amp meter and this will take time to research which one's work best and can be mounted in appropriate locations.

[Dene]

I've tested it some. The 400 watt setting doesn't draw down the batteries at idle. At cruise, 800 watts is fine too. This is verified by the Wallyworld voltage thingy and the boats voltage meter.

I have not tested the 400W setting against the batteries alone for any significant duration. At the dock or on the hook, I'd rely on the propane heater for my Campion or the Aspar heater for the trawler. Overnight, on the Campion, we'll use an electric blanket.

-Greg