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Ranger Winterizing Mod - Part2

 
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IdleUp



Joined: 06 Sep 2008
Posts: 157
City/Region: Smith Mountain Lake
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Model: R-25 Tug
Vessel Name: Linda Sue
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:44 pm    Post subject: Ranger Winterizing Mod - Part2 Reply with quote

Part 2 - of my winterizing, is the modification of the water intake for the sea-water wash-down and head intake. The modification consists of installing two additional shut-off valves so the RV antifreeze solution is locked into the appliances and hoses.

On my Ranger, I improved the factory installation of the sea-water wash-down pump location. Since the pump was very close to the strainer, they looped the hose to get it on the pump. The problem is, the pump inlet is O-ring supported, and there was a considerable amount of side pressure on the intake fitting. I relocated the pump and supported it to the plywood platform under the holding tank. This provided me an improved layout for the shut-off valves as well.

To winterize the head and raw water wash-down, you simply shut off the water intake valve on the hull and remove the strainer top and pour the solution directly in the strainer. Pump the head until you see the red solution in both the head then into the holding tank, which is visible in the engine compartment, then shut off the valve.

Next, the sea-water wash-down is winterized by starting the pump until the solution is drawn into the pump and lines and comes out the hose fitting. Be sure to now close the sea-water pump shut-off valve you installed.

Reinstall the strainer plastic cover and re-open your intake valve on the hull and then start the engine and visually make sure the water is flowing in the strainer and there is water coming out of the exhaust. Double check your valves and fitting to make sure everything is tight and there isn’t any leaks.

Enjoy!





This is an image of the original "stock" layout of the sea-water wash-down and the head intake on the strainer. Note loop and location of the wash-down pump.




This image shows the completed system with the two valves in place and the re-located wash-down pump which allows a much neater layout of the hoses and improved access.

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drjohn71a



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
Posts: 1820
City/Region: Wichita
State or Province: KS
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Tom-a-Hawk
Photos: Tom-a-Hawk
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like you've certainly done some great re-working on that tug!

I don't know about this particular setup that you show, but I am thinking that sometimes they put a loop in a line to protect against siphoning. Is that why they put that big loop in?

John
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IdleUp



Joined: 06 Sep 2008
Posts: 157
City/Region: Smith Mountain Lake
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Model: R-25 Tug
Vessel Name: Linda Sue
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure if that's the reason Ranger arranged it this way - I've had sea-water wash-downs on almost all my boats and never seen a loop used before. Either way, the stiff hose was putting a lot of pressure on the plastic pump inlet and might have failed at some point. You can see in the original image the hose is pulled up 10 -15 degrees or so.

Aside from the ease of winterizing - the shut off valves are additionally useful in the event a hose or pump failure up while under way.
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TomRay
Dealer


Joined: 12 Aug 2008
Posts: 121
City/Region: Punta Gorda
State or Province: FL
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That original setup picture does not look like an anti-siphon loop to me. Anti-siphon loops go up well above water level, and have a vent fitting in them.

I think that one is set up that way so that the hose can be connected and disconnected from the hose barbs. Think about the difficulty of putting on a hose of the exact right length in such a small space. It's a lot easier to bend extra hose than to get a short piece to bend enough to go on the 2nd barb after fitting it on the first one.

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drjohn71a



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
Posts: 1820
City/Region: Wichita
State or Province: KS
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Tom-a-Hawk
Photos: Tom-a-Hawk
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idle up,

I like the mods you've made for the winterizing. I did something like that for my last houseboat and it took a very short time to completely ensure all lines were protected from freezing. However, your work looks very professional... unlike my past attempts.

I see what the dealer was talking about - needing some extra tubing flex for engaging the barbs. I am not familiar with where your waterline is in relation to the photo, so missed on that guess.

Thanks for posting,

John
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captd



Joined: 06 Nov 2003
Posts: 514
City/Region: Chain of Lakes
State or Province: MT
C-Dory Year: 1994
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Kon Tiki
Photos: Hunky Dory
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idleup,
Were the original connections from the strainer double hose clamped?
On my 1st Ranger, they were not. I had three failures. None below water line, but could have been. I am an absolute fanatic on double hose clamps below water line. I think the factory has rectified that problem.

Your improvements look really good. Probably will copy some of them. Keep up your posting. We need all the activity we can get on the site. I appreciate it. Thanks
captd

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1986 Sport Craft 27 ft , 240 hrs Yanmar sold
2000 22 ft C-Dory (Hunky Dory) sold 2006
2007 25 R Ranger (Mis Dee) sold 2008
2009 25 R Ranger (Lucky Fin) sold
1994 22 ft C-Dory ( Kon Tiki )
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IdleUp



Joined: 06 Sep 2008
Posts: 157
City/Region: Smith Mountain Lake
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Model: R-25 Tug
Vessel Name: Linda Sue
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

captd wrote:
Idleup,
Were the original connections from the strainer double hose clamped?
On my 1st Ranger, they were not. I had three failures. None below water line, but could have been. I am an absolute fanatic on double hose clamps below water line. I think the factory has rectified that problem.

Your improvements look really good. Probably will copy some of them. Keep up your posting. We need all the activity we can get on the site. I appreciate it. Thanks
captd


Capt,

Much to my surprise, the only hose on the boat that is double clamped in the strainer connections to the engine. Even the other end of the hose to the engine, the 90 degree adapter, and both ends of the water pump under the water line are only single clamped. I had a massive water leak from the front of the Cummins engine and found most all the clamps loose by the pump.

I came in the boat one day and turned on the water pump and it just kept running - so I thought it was out of water, only to find the hose popped off the water heater, neither of the clamps were tightened. Last week, my pump started running about every two minutes, however I am yet to find out if it's the pump switch or another leak. After having those problems - I checked every hose that is visible and only a few were properly tightened, so Ranger might have a problem to look into.

The hoses that worry me are the ones feeding the water heater and the cabin heater. The T's off the water heater are hidden from view and since all the other clamps were loose, I'll bet these are the same. With a single engine boat, you don't want to take any chances with losing a hose at sea!

Even though I rather have everything double clamped - for the most part, I don't have a problem with a single clamp on a device if I put it on "myself" with a small socket to get it seated properly. They never double clamp auto's and you almost never see a hose come off - but of course they don't sink either! Mr. Green
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