Corrosion in the carbs

[Larry H]

Another source for fuel additives is the local Evinrude dealer.

Evinrude has a product known as "2 + 4". This is a fuel additive that stabilizes the gasoline for storage, or for use. It prevents water problems and prevents varnish in the fuel system. It too, comes in a metal can and can stain the fiberglass around the fuel fill, so use a funnel.

Another Evinrude product is "Engine Tuner". This is used to de-carbonize the inside of the combustion chamber and rings. It is made especially for 2-stroke motors. It comes in a spray can and is sprayed into the carbs with the motor running, then shut off the motor and allow to soak for an hour, and then run the motor for 5 min to clear. This stuff really works, it will dissolve the carbon from the top of a piston.

I don't own any stock in Evinrude, but I have used these products for years, and they do work.

[C-WEED]

Harvey,

When fuel tanks were made of steel they were kept full to minimize the air pocket at the top of the tank. The fuel and steel tank would condensate as the temperature changed and with the air cause rust and sediment. And you had the fuel going bad with age.

With the plastic tank I won't say that they don't condensate because moisture is always in the air, but I don't think it is as bad as the cold steel tank. Plastic tanks don't rust. So the main problems with long term storage is the fuel going bad. Hard to tell so use a fuel stabilizer. And moisture. The fuel stabilizer should help with the moisture. If moisture accumulates in any great quanity it will form droplets and sink to the lowest area. If you pull a fuel tank you might see it there since the fuel tanks never run dry. Drain the water filter separator and might see some. Drain the carb float bowls and you might find some. Most engines have a last chance filter under the engine cover made of white plastic. All you can see is if liquid is present. You can get an after market clear filter. Then you can see fuel, water droplets or sediment. The point here is if you have moisture in any quantity you can see it and deal with it.

With the fuel tanks, when I stop using my boat for the season the stabil/fuel mix is always present. I eventually syphon as much fuel as I can out and run it in the garden tractor, car, truck and such. I can never get the last two gallons or so out, but the stabil treatment is there. In the spring I mix a can of B-12 with (can't remember if it's 10 or 12 gallons) and dump that in one tank and run it thru the first trip of the season. The other tank has about 10 gallons of fresh fuel with stabil. The idea of not filling the tanks all the way is to try and purge out the older fuel that was in the bottom of the tanks. It is a little work to syphon the fuel each year. I like this way better than buying and treating 50 gallons, storing all season and then burning it up in the spring. Now days they have the winter blended fuel and the summer blend. Who really knows when the change? Maybe it's a moot point but something to consider. If you top the tanks in the fall are you burning winter blend in the spring? Maybe it doesn't matter... I'm sure other folks do things different but this method has worked well for me.

I don't get the time to do much coastal cruising. Therefor I almost always fill my boat six gallons cans at a time. This allows inspection of the cans each time for dirt and moisture. Most gas stations are better at moisture dirt control than marina fuel. I just use one of those plastic syphon pumps that you squeeze to get it going. Had the same pump since 1989 and it hasn't failed yet.

One more thing: When you see that tanker truck filling up the gas station. Don't get gas there. It takes several hours for the sediment and moisture in those big tanks to settle back to the bottom after the tanker stirs it all up.

[hardee]

WOW, thanks for all the info. I have plastic, somewhat translucent, tanks that I can see the fuel level through. I have checked the Racors, but will now do that every trip out. And change the filter inside the cowl to a clear one. I have "Ring-Free" a Yamaha product, that the mechanics say works great. I need to get some of the B-12 and start using that. I use a product called CorrosionEX to spray inside the cowling to keep corrosion down. Seems to be working on the outside anyway.

Larry, Thanks for the tip on the "2+4" stabilizer. I will look that up locally.

Harvey
SleepyC