cracked wood teak handle

C-Pelican · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:18 am Post subject: cracked wood teak handle

Hello all,

On my older C-Dory all the handles on top of the roof are teak (I think). This week-end I felt one give as I was using it and noticed a horizontal crack all the way through one of the legs of it.
It is the smaller handle, towards the outside of the cabin top, maybe a foot long.

Is it fixable? Glue? If so, what kind of glue?

It would have to be a very solid fix as I use those handles every time I go out to hold on to as I walk the edge of the boat and if it 'gave' I get wet...at the least!

As always, thanks,
Jeff

Cheers · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:51 am Post subject:

I repaired mine using Monster Glue. you may see a glue line but proper clamping/sanding will make it less noticeable. Good strength.

C-Pelican · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:44 pm Post subject:

Thanks Cheers. A glue line is of no concern to me; functionability is my concern.

colobear · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 1:25 pm Post subject:

Many modern wood glues will make a joint stronger than the base wood itself. Just make sure your choice is waterproof and compatible with sunlight.

Larry H · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:26 pm Post subject:

Jeff,

My 91 22 Cruiser only had the long wood grab rails on the roof.

The short single handle was mounted vertical on the bulkhead. If you have a short handle on the cabin top, it might have been added on.

Anyway, I would check the length of the screw and if it is short, you could put in a longer screw to support more of the wood. Be sure to drill a deeper pilot hole first.

Another choice is to drill all the way thru the handle and countersink from the outside and put a flat head machine screw in from the outside of the handle with a nut and washer in the inside of the boat. This would require a teak plug to cover the countersunk screw head on the outside of the handle.

Sea Wolf · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 9:16 pm Post subject:

Jeff-

Larry's fix is the strongest if you can countersink and plug the machine screw hole. Star

If not, perhaps two wood screws, parallel to and along side the original screw would do the job. They could come from inside the bulkhead and give you three screws to anchor the handle with. Be sure to drill into the wood on the outside of the crack. Drill pilot holes, of course. No countersink screw heads to hide with this method.

Will you be able to open the break enough to get glue throughly into the crack or is it cracked through already?

One word of caution: don't use 5 minute epoxy for a glue. My experience with it on sailboats was that repeated heating and cooling cycles in very hot weather caused it to loosen it's grip and fracture, especially on flat surface applications, although your handle is probably very irregular along he break. Regular epoxy is much stronger. Be sure to use plenty of pressure on the glued joint. You can probably prepare the screw holes, put wet epoxy on the crack, then just tighten the screws to get the clamp pressure. Wipe down the excess, then lightly sand and refinish the teak.

Good Luck!

Joe. Teeth

thataway · Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 9:49 pm Post subject:

Jeff,
You must have been swinging from those handles--I added them, so they are not origional. They should be still avialable from West marine (but I have SS on the current boats, because I don't do teak anymore!

Epoxy or Gorilla glue may both work. I wouold agree that drilling thru the entire handle, and then plugging will give more strength. But you will find it very tight putting the nut on. Probably best to not plug until the machine screw is secured, using a screw driver or screw driver blade in a brace.

C-Pelican · Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 10:49 am Post subject:

Thanks Joe and Larry.

Bob, you mean I am NOT supposed to swing from those handles,,,well shoot!!!!

I think it is mainly due to storing the boat in the Mojave Desert uncovered....

Nice to find out they were add-on's and yes, I like the durability and less maintenance of SS handles...but finances dictate I try to fix this first.

I do like the idea of a machine screw all the way through the long teak handles up top that are above the front accesory wood shelf that holds the radio and such above my head as those screws always seem to loosen up a bit as the ocean waves pound me.

As always, thanks to all. Not too many boaters in the desert to bounce ideas off of.
Jeff

CAVU · Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 4:57 pm Post subject:

Jeff,
One thing that will improve glue bonding with teak is to wipe the surfaces with acetone just before gluing. this will remove surface oils from the teak and provide a better bonding surface for the glue. I have had good luck with several exterior rated glues with teak. I like the Titebond dark waterproof glue the best. The polyurethane glues, "Gorilla" is one brand, are good but tend to leave a thicker glue line and are much harder to clean up and sand. They tend to "foam" out as they cure.

C-Pelican · Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 7:08 pm Post subject:

Thanks Ken