Removing perimeter balsa core, to be replaced with thickened epoxy.
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Cleaned out, prepping for next steps.
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Some of the supplies laid out.
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Sketch of the plan for new upper layer.
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Sketch of the plan for new lower skin, also showing new upper skin already in place.
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Testing fit of forming board, clamps. Clamps have blue tape on them to ward off epoxy. Forming board covered in clear packing tape.
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New upper glass in place. After it cures to rigid-but-still-slightly-green stage, board will be removed and glass trimmed with utility knife.
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New upper skin with fairing compound applied but not yet sanded.
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New opening getting closer to done. Circles show relationship of (some of the) new holes to the opening.
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Underside, annotated.
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Underside, un-annotated (easier to see).
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New hatch, overview. Key was to not have the hatch overlap the deck "boss" on either after corner.
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Detail showing placement in relationship to deck boss. Note for determining placement: Hatch with lid is asymmetrically different than hatch rim alone.
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Fiberglass backing plate added to cleat. First, core removed around fastener perimeters, then re-filled with thickened epoxy (hole in deck not enlarged; work done from below). Next, backing plate set in place with "mush" of thickened epoxy. Then holes redrilled through all and cleats re-bedded with butyl tape and re-fastened with new, 316 stainless fasteners.
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Battery tray holes over-drilled to be filled with thickened epoxy (not re-using this fastening method for batteries). Also edges of locker bottom (which were raw balsa) were removed and filled with thickened epoxy.
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Lid restraint. I made these by putting snaps in each end of a section of tubular webbing. The strap is removable by un-snapping it, and/or a different length strap could be made up.
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Strap was set up such that it would fall into the locker when closing the lid (vs. getting in the way of the closure).
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Strap is attached to hatch with snap stud that has a disc of 3M VHB tape on the back (they come this way). I could also have through-fastened.
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On boat end I used a screw-in snap stud. This area was previously filled with thickened epoxy, so no wooden core was involved.
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