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 Ground Tackle 
Here is the deck thru-hull block that sends the anchor line down the hawse pipe.  It has a string in it for now.
Here is the deck thru-hull block that sends the anchor line down the hawse pipe. It has a string in it for now.
Viewed: 1044 times.

After passing through the deck, the line goes through this pulley under the V berth and back to the cockpit.
After passing through the deck, the line goes through this pulley under the V berth and back to the cockpit.
Viewed: 252 times.

This shows my ground tackle system from the inside.  The anchor line goes through the cam cleat under the V berth to a thru-deck pulley, up through the hawse pipe, through another thru-deck pulley, and to the anchor.  The anchor can be raised and lowered from the helm.  The system is rated at one monkey power.
This shows my ground tackle system from the inside. The anchor line goes through the cam cleat under the V berth to a thru-deck pulley, up through the hawse pipe, through another thru-deck pulley, and to the anchor. The anchor can be raised and lowered from the helm. The system is rated at one monkey power.
Viewed: 1069 times.

Below deck, there is a hawse pipe with an access hole in it by the lower thru-deck block that sends the anchor line aft under the V berth.  I'm putting the original EPS foam flotation back in place after insulating the through deck fittings for the pulpit.  The original EPS was just loose fitted, but I'm foaming them into place to help reduce the oil drum whanging sound of a fiberglass hull.
Below deck, there is a hawse pipe with an access hole in it by the lower thru-deck block that sends the anchor line aft under the V berth. I'm putting the original EPS foam flotation back in place after insulating the through deck fittings for the pulpit. The original EPS was just loose fitted, but I'm foaming them into place to help reduce the oil drum whanging sound of a fiberglass hull.
Viewed: 1010 times.

This is the cam cleat by the helm (again with a string instead of the anchor line).  A regular cleat will be off to the right so that the anchor rode isn't held by only a cam cleat.
This is the cam cleat by the helm (again with a string instead of the anchor line). A regular cleat will be off to the right so that the anchor rode isn't held by only a cam cleat.
Viewed: 941 times.

Because of the new hawse pipe, the original EPS needed to be modified.  Cutting EPS is generally really messy.  So I used my heat gun (and adequate ventilation).
Because of the new hawse pipe, the original EPS needed to be modified. Cutting EPS is generally really messy. So I used my heat gun (and adequate ventilation).
Viewed: 935 times.

The original bow bulkhead was fastened top and bottom (deck and berth) with a couple rusty angle brackets.  I moved the bulkhead forward two inches and used caulking to glue the bulkhead to the hull on both sides.  Since the boat has no ribs, any bulkhead helps reduce hull noise.  Plus, now my berth is 6 foot 2 inches!!!
The original bow bulkhead was fastened top and bottom (deck and berth) with a couple rusty angle brackets. I moved the bulkhead forward two inches and used caulking to glue the bulkhead to the hull on both sides. Since the boat has no ribs, any bulkhead helps reduce hull noise. Plus, now my berth is 6 foot 2 inches!!!
Viewed: 977 times.

The through-deck block gets a clam shell vent cover to keep rain out.  In the background is the anchor rode that I was going to use, ready to be sent through the blocks using the string.  I changed to using sinking
The through-deck block gets a clam shell vent cover to keep rain out. In the background is the anchor rode that I was going to use, ready to be sent through the blocks using the string. I changed to using sinking "crab pot" line. That wasn't as heavy as I wanted, so I'm now using the sinking lead line that is used on the bottom of a gill net.
Viewed: 925 times.

I added these little cheeks to my bow roller so that my lightweight Guardian anchor was far enough out to self launch.
I added these little cheeks to my bow roller so that my lightweight Guardian anchor was far enough out to self launch. *
Viewed: 796 times.

But my main anchor is now the smallest Vulcan.  It launches and retrieves great, but without chain it is a little hard to set.
But my main anchor is now the smallest Vulcan. It launches and retrieves great, but without chain it is a little hard to set. *
Viewed: 872 times.

To compensate for a lack of chain, I used lead-filled line.  This is the same line as used on the bottom of a gill net.  Available in different weights, this is some of the lighter stuff, but still drops
To compensate for a lack of chain, I used lead-filled line. This is the same line as used on the bottom of a gill net. Available in different weights, this is some of the lighter stuff, but still drops "like lead."
Viewed: 664 times.

The anchor line is kept on a spool intended for electrical cord.  This is about 140 feet (15-20 pounds?) and still tucks out of the way under the gas tank in the V-berth.  Doing a density/buoyancy calculation, it's about the same as having 35' of 1/4
The anchor line is kept on a spool intended for electrical cord. This is about 140 feet (15-20 pounds?) and still tucks out of the way under the gas tank in the V-berth. Doing a density/buoyancy calculation, it's about the same as having 35' of 1/4" chain on a 140' rode.
Viewed: 666 times.

The secret is a string of lead beads down the center of the line.
The secret is a string of lead beads down the center of the line.
Viewed: 556 times.

My anchor recovery system is two fishing floats making a spool with a piece of wood dowel.  50' of parachute chord.  It is too small to be mistaken for a mooring buoy, plus, I usually anchor in so shallow that other boats stay away.
My anchor recovery system is two fishing floats making a spool with a piece of wood dowel. 50' of parachute chord. It is too small to be mistaken for a mooring buoy, plus, I usually anchor in so shallow that other boats stay away.
Viewed: 695 times.

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