I used this idea for several years and realized 200 watts was overkill for me. I remounted one 100 watt panel on standoffs on the middle of the roof. This clears the hand rails and looks neater. *

I made the frame mounts to match the slight roundness of the roof and to shed water. I used readily available aluminum stock and SS hardware.

Six clips mount frame to original hand rails.

Rail clips from Defender. Easy off and on.

If I bring the dinghy, the SP mounts over the cockpit, and acts as a dodger. As I seldom use the camperback, this is where I will keep it. It is narrow enough to not get in the way when going forward, boarding, or fishing. Later on I rethought this idea and moved the dinghy to this rack and left the sps on the roof. Final configuration is one solar panel on standoffs mid roof, dinghy in a case on the cockpit deck, 110 volt inflator running off the invertor. I can inflate and launch the dinghy over the side in 10 minutes.

The cockpit framework is made of 7/8" thickwall SS and can be broken down to 4' sections and stored under the gunnels.

The same clips used to mount the panels to the roof, mount it on the cockpit frame.

The wiring is secured by tywraps and reaches either the roof or cockpit mount. Two connectors and 12 screws and I can move the SPs to my travel trailer.

I don't like drilling holes in the boat. The only holes drilled were to mount the rear frame and one hidden under the rear roof to run wiring.

Frame to grabrail is common SS fixture from Defender.

The original Renogy kit included this controller, which worked fine, but I moved it to the travel trailer and upgraded to a better system for the boat.

This controller, while slightly more expensive, is much more versatile.

New controller specs. Also, the "load" output on this controller can be programmed to turn on at dark and off at dawn. I ran this through an on/off/on switch to the anchor light.