Holes for planes and actuators overdrilled and hollowed out (inner hollowed out area quite a bit larger than visible hole), preparatory to filling with thickened epoxy. The center actuator hole looks "white" because it goes all the way through and you can see "air" in the cockpit behind it. I taped the transom prior to laying out the locations for the various components so that I could make my layout lines on the tape.

After filling with thickened epoxy and letting it cure, I tapped the holes for the fasteners. The reason there are some raggedy bits of tape left on are because I had wanted to save a few of my reference lines. I made the holes in the template with paper punch - that worked well for lining up the upper actuator holes when I went to re-drill.

This is a "core sample" of the transom from where I overdrilled the holes for mounting the Mini Jacker. At the top is the outer skin. The reason there is no inner skin on the sample is that I just cut the large hole up to the inner skin but not through it. I only made a fastener-sized (smaller) hole through the inner skin, so it's not attached to the core sample.

Hole for zinc

Bracket backing plate for Bennett trim tab HPU. I wanted to be able to mount it above the starboard fuel tank, for super-efficient use of space -- but this meant I would not be able to lift off the lid. I also wanted to use Weld Mount studs to mount it to the hull side. So I made a Starboard backing plate (the yellow material) and mounted Bennett's HPU bracket to it (black). Now instead of lifting the lid from the HPU (which is not something that is done often), I instead take the yellow plate off the hull side and then move the HPU to where I can take the lid off. I made the two sets of Weld Mount studs different lengths so that it would be easier to get the yellow plate in place (sort of like how two rudder pintles are different lengths).

Back side of the plate. Since I could pre-mount the black Bennett bracket I was able to use countersunk fasteners and tighten them (vs. needing them to not spin). The additional holes are just for lightening since all that material was not needed.

Cardboard template used for mounting the Weld Mount studs to the hull side. The two aft ones (that are already there) are longer, and the two forward ones (not there yet in photo) will be shorter to make it easier to get the yellow plate back in after removing it.

HPU, bracket, and yellow plate put together.

Provisionally in place. This is over the starboard fuel tank, although the tank is not in in the photo. But I did the final mounting, running of hydraulic lines, etc. with the tank in place to be sure it would all work. This was all done a couple of years ago and so far has been working fine. There is a certain order of motions involved in getting the HPU out for removing the cover (once the lines are on it, which they are once it is in use), so I made a video of the procedure just to make sure I would not forget it.